Is there a place on the forum that has a list of what cars have/had what drive shafts (connection types).

According to my Haynes I should have a offset sphere (1978 998cc leyland clubman (s) ) as opposed to the earlier models with the outer constant velocity joint, inner sliding spline and rubber coupling - inner offset sphere joint on later models - and the Hardy-Spicer universal on Cooper s mark 3 and automatic trans models.

I am just being lazy and don't have my car at home currently to check.

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

There are two types of outer CV joint,

Small (Drum and Cooper 7.0 Disc Brakes)
Large (7.5" & 8.4" Disc Brakes)

For inner CV's at the side of the differential, there are a three:

Rubber cross (All standard Mini variants to 73 including early Cooper S) http://www.classicmotoring.net.au/cmos/ ... gcd101.JPG
Hardy Spicer (Cooper S, Clubman GT, Mini Matic) http://minispares.com/image.axd?type=pr ... 7H7880.jpg
Pot Joint (Clubman from 73 onwards) http://www.minimania.com/images_temp/80 ... dam667.jpg

Any can be used with any engine/ car configuration with Rubber Joint being the most problematic, Hardy Spicer next, and pot joint easiest to deal with in use. There is a difference between a hardy spicer universal, and a CV, in that the speed of a Hardy Spicer in use slightly oscillates because of the geometry of the universal joint with respect to the output shaft speed compared to the input shaft. This gets worse as the angle gets more acute. A CV is literally Constant in velocity, no matter what the angle. I am unsure which inner CV is stronger, but its not the rubber cross.

All three need specific setup with the Differential. The difference being the output shafts from the diff being slightly different as well as the side covers on the diff. The rest of the diff is standard to all Minis. If you want to change Inner CV type, then you will need to lift the engine out to alter the differential set up for the output shafts and side covers. If changing to inner CV(Pot joint) then you will need to change the drive shafts out as well. The outer CVs don't mind what goes on with the Inner CVs, as the shafts are all the same on the other end.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Well said mick...

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

Hardy Spicer uni joints are stronger, as their diff output shafts are 1/8" bigger diameter than all the others.
This means their side covers have 1/8" larger bronze bushes and seals. The bigger bushes attract Cooper S tax, they are much dearer than the std Mini ones. But the U/Js themselves (GUG101) are cheap.
Offset sphere (pot) joints are cheap now, but the quality can be a bit `cheerful' (not). Drive yokes for the Hardy Spicers are still available new, but very expensive (more Cooper S tax).
These days, pot joints are the sensible choice for most road Minis.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Very well said, thanks for the info guys, I will hopefully get under the front sometime this week and confirm. The info confirms what I have read so I should have a pot joint, unless something is seriously off.

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

is there a special reason you need to know right now?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If your gonna get new pot joints get them off mini kingdom online the karcraft ones are sh1t the rubber boot goes hard and splits or comes off the pot joints within about 6 months and also one off mine had a faulty core plug which leaked the engine oil out from day one after putting them in

A few people on the uk forums have had the same problems with pot joints as well

(im gonna have a crack at fixing the leaking one soon i got some core plugs the right size on saturday for a $1 each so got 4 two thick and two thin)

There about $75 each new at both places and ive brought a set at both places (cause one place went on holidays over xmas and we wanted to go on a club run in january this year)

Thanks for the heads up, Mini kingdom padstow?

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

Nope, it's now John Smidt, at http://www.minikingdomonline.com.au
He is out at Mulgrave (near Windsor).

Mini Kingdom shop at Padstow is long gone.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I seen a old mini car clinic banner the other day as well It was about 20 metres long and 5 metres wide it was folded in half so couldn't make out what the rest said
I should have asked if it was for sale the people must have used it to cover there stuff over night at the swap meet