my mini's temp gauge rises to above normal operating temp when driving or even just holding on the accelerator idling as soon as i let it idle it drops right down to normal temp.

ive replaced radiator, waterpump, hoses, thermostat & radiator cap so im thinking electrical, so could my sensor be nackered or the wire probably touches the alternator, its got me stumpped as there's not much else to replace

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It will be your voltage stabiliser, its rising and falling with the line voltage.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

that's annoying, i replaced that less than 6months ago lol

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Try replacing a few more random parts and see if that helps.

Or you could get a thermometer and see if the gauge is accurate and if the engine is actually overheating.

Have you made one using Wombats design? A few bucks and quite good.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

nope i havent seen wombats design but sent him a PM.

where would the best place to check the temp from be and what sort of range, considering how fast it rises then drops i dont think its over heating as it takes less than 2 sec's to rise then about that again too drop back down to normal temp position on the gauge

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Actually, Wombat used to sell them on here. I thought there was a design in the How-To, but there's not. Drop him a PM. They'll be a little more robust than a 40 year old one.

I'll have a search around for the design all the same.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Here you go. Hop to it!

http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-v ... ilizer.htm

You need an MC7810 Voltage regulator from Jaycar, and maybe an LED and 1000 Ohm resistor if you like LED lights telling you its working.

Edit: Jaycar don't have MC7810, but there's three ways of doing it with just two more 1/4 Watt resistors, A 240 Ohm and a 1.6k Ohm (1K6 in Jaycar) and either a LM317 or LM337. Don't screw them down onto metal.

Might be time for a How-To.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I found my standard old [1970 vintage] voltage stabilizer was prone to vibration when moving. The faster I went, the lower the fuel gauge would read. Then when you stopped at the lights, you could watch the needle come back up!
But, if I ran the car up on stands at 80 or 100 kmh, it didn't do this.
I then flung it away and fitted a wombat special, it has been fine ever since.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Join the club but my parts are 12 months

yea i was having fuel gauge issues then replaced it which fixed, il take it all out & check it hasnt wobbled out least taking the gauge cluster out is an easy job.

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I enjoy watching the fuel tank gauge rise when the engine temp increases.

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It's easy once you know how.

I emant to drop by Jaycar today but I forgot. I'm going to make up the how-to this weekend. I've got a spare voltage reg here I'll gut to fit it all in.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Wombat's later version had no tin can, the regulator chip just had 3 flying leads with spade lugs soldered onto it.
I just tucked it up into the wiring loom, it doesn't get hot.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok bumpity up, ive replaced the voltage stabilizer, and discovering my cluster broken circuits.... ok then, i chucked in a spare i have and temp gauge is still rising, next will be too test the temp, what sort of temp range idling would i be looking at? the chances of 2 dodgy gauges seems a little unlikley but as this 1 dosnt have working indicator or hi beam lights its possible

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