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 Post subject: coolant leak
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 8:13 pm 
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Location: cabramatta sydney
warming up my car this morning,

i noticed bright green coolant fluid around a nut on the thermostat housing,
and a line of it (about 7cm long) between the engine block and head at the engine number platform.

this is the first time ive seen it, there are no white chalky stains (dried coolant) around it, so it might be the first time it has happened

what should i do?
ive never taken the head off, and hope not to anytime soon. if i have to, then ill have to arrange an appointment with a friend of a friend.

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 Post subject: Re: coolant leak
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 8:18 pm 
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68matic wrote:
warming up my car this morning,

i noticed bright green coolant fluid around a nut on the thermostat housing,
and a line of it (about 7cm long) between the engine block and head at the engine number platform.

this is the first time ive seen it, there are no white chalky stains (dried coolant) around it, so it might be the first time it has happened

what should i do?
ive never taken the head off, and hope not to anytime soon. if i have to, then ill have to arrange an appointment with a friend of a friend.
id say the coolant line on the block is where the coolant has rundown, the coolant soulds like its coming out of the top rad hose, tighten up the clip and see if it keeps leaking ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 8:29 pm 
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Yeah maybe a hose, or a thermostat gasket is leaking. No big deal.
If you take the thermo housing off clean it up real good and use new gaskets and some gasket cement. Don't buy the cork gaskets- they are too soft and will squeeze out when you tighten it down.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 9:36 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: cabramatta sydney
thanks for the note, ill search around again

as for the thermostat housing, i put a thermostat in it in January, after heating problems and bought a paper gasket with the thermostat.
put the dark brown gasket glue and popped it on.

the problem with the housing is that one bolt and nut have been worn away badly. there still is traction between the two, but you can twist and twist. i only did it enough so that it wont wear away even more.

this brings me to another question:

can you replace the bolt that is embedded in the head?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 10:22 pm 
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Yes you can replace the studs. Take the housing off, then put a pair of vice grips or a stud extractor on the stud and undo it. Put a 5/16" UNC bottom tap into the hole to clean it out before fitting a new stud.
I would take them all out and replace with Allen head bolts. This mod has several advantages:
1. You will not get the usual problem of the housing corroding onto the studs, as the act of undoing the bolts will crack off any corrosion between them.
2. These bolts are high tensile steel and less likely to break.
3. Whenever you take it apart it's easier to scrape the gasket surfaces clean.

If you want to make it look pretty, (BLING!) you can get some 5/16" UNC or Whitworth bolts in S/S instead from a boat shop- Bias Boating Warehouse are pretty cheap. Either 304 or 316 grade, won't matter. 5/16" W and 5/16" UNC have the same thread pitch, yes they do fit. Only difference is thread angle- 55* vs 60*, `dusn' matter' in this application, as Con the fruiterer would say...
Don't overtighten them. S/S bolts are not as strong as some people think.
If you fit either type of bolt use some aviation gasket cement on the threads, it makes 'em come out easy next time. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Fri Jun 18, 2004 6:14 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 11:58 pm 
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great Doc
ill look into it after my exams
thank you
duc

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