You say you put spray (syb) down carby and nothing then you can rule out lack of fuel. If it had fired and died, then yes to fuel problem.
Next, it started a couple of weeks before so barring something totally weird, you have to assume it's got compression / timing right etc. Contrary to popular beleifs, distributors don't climb out and put them selves back in wrong just to pi&& you off.
You say plugs were fuely, I'd be looking for spark problem. Although you say it has spark, is it good? It should be 'thick and strong', jumping at least 6-8 mm. If it's not there's a few things that'll cause it, firstly the points being dirty/burnt or just way out in gap.
Secondly a dud condensor will cause little or no spark, usually a thin weak spark.
Next is coil, if it's cracked/burnt you should see arcing around tower. Checking it in night/ darkness is easier.
Just because leads are relatively new don't assume they're not faulty, still check spark at each one.
To check rotor button is a two person job. First take dist cap off and move aside, unplug coil lead out of cap. Now hold lead about 6-8 mm from CENTRE of rotor (where little brush touches), and then get someonr to try and start it. Make sure your fingers are well up on insulated section of lead and AWAY from rotor button is it'll be spinning. The spark shouldn't arc onto rotor if it's ok, if it does the rotor button's faulty.
Other thing to check is make sure the carbon brush is in cap. If you can check it in pitch darkness you might see some teltail arcing around ignition bits.
If all else fails are you in the NRMA? Only problem with that is you'll probably get some pimply faced young kid who's never seen a set of points, let alone know how to fix 'em. lol
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