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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:15 am 
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848cc
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I'm changing both my cv's this weekend I'm pretty handy with working on cars and the father in law a semi retired mechanic, neither of us have done a cv on a mini before just after some advice to make the job easier for us as time is tight on the weekend for us to get it done... Any tricks or DONT do people can pass on....

Oh and disk brake 1275cc A+ cv's too...

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:54 am 
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1360cc
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Replacing the CV only is pretty easy......the hardest part is undoing and retightening the hub nut.
Just note the hub nuts have different tightening torques depending on it being disc / drum cv and the number of cross pin drillings it has. Most of the time it'll be 200ft/lb for a disc cv.....but again check.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 12:50 pm 
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848cc
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I did mine on brake drums about 12mths ago and found the 'drum to disc' how to thread very useful. Had to replace them again last week while converting to disc brakes. It was a lot quicker second time around.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:44 pm 
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998cc
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I thought disc setups were 150ft/lb?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 10:14 pm 
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1360cc
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Scoop you are correct......it is 150 lb/ft.......which is about 200n/m......my bad.

Interestingly though.....the disc cvs from the factory were sometimes 190 lb/ft which appears in some repair manuals.......but this has been known to strip the threads out!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 11:29 pm 
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Loosen the driveshaft nuts and the ball joint nuts while it's fall on the ground.
Put the nut back on before trying to whack the CV off the driveshaft. Saves damaging the thread.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:14 am 
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998cc
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on cv joints , i have seen some different aftermarket ones recently around the traps... i think i have read the metalli SPa?? ones (made in italy) are good quality but don't know if this is correct. I haven't seen them advertised anywhere? thoughts experiences/


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:22 am 
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Ive seen some new aftermarket cvs that didnt fit properly too.....splines not made long enough.
:?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 12:16 pm 
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Beware, some of these aftermarket CVs have metric nuts..
Make sure the CV comes with a nut, and it fits the thread properly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:36 pm 
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Brought the CVs from minispares UK....

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 8:51 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Beware, some of these aftermarket CVs have metric nuts..
Make sure the CV comes with a nut, and it fits the thread properly.


with regard to nuts, without sounding like one.
fitted the u=beut Chineezze nut to a turbo charger the other day and due to the fact the face of the nut was not perpendicular to the axis of the shaft it actually bent the shaft and would not balance.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 6:07 am 
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1098cc
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Diesel27 wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Beware, some of these aftermarket CVs have metric nuts..
Make sure the CV comes with a nut, and it fits the thread properly.


with regard to nuts, without sounding like one.
fitted the u=beut Chineezze nut to a turbo charger the other day and due to the fact the face of the nut was not perpendicular to the axis of the shaft it actually bent the shaft and would not balance.


Yeah, the Chinese turbos have a specially bent shaft fitted so when the nut is fitted, the shaft bends out straight :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 11:30 am 
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I've also seen CVs come with a thick nut that didn't fit. Too tall to get the split pin in. :evil:

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 7:54 pm 
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Image


So I wonder why the CVs been quite noisey..... I think I may have found it....

Thanks for the advice and heads up on the how to thread was a great help just to refer back to make sure I was doing to right.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:27 pm 
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998cc
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Disc CVs are tightened to 150 lbft and then a bit more to align the next split pin hole with the castellated nut.

RonR

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