TL;DR - Dropped a valve keeper down push rod hole. Put a magnet taped to a screw driver down and now there is a big metal object that is free to move. No idea what it is.

Also - why would my 998 (according to serial number) have double valve springs?

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So today I was attempting to replace my valve stem seals. Looks easy enough and would be one thing i could eliminate for my smoky exhausts..

Bought new valve stem seals and bought one of those valve keeper tools. Put string in my first cylinder and turned the engine so that the rope stopped moving. Sweet.

Having difficulty putting the valve keepers back on using the tool and one of them pops off and falls down where the pushrod hole. Crap.

Looked down it with a torch light and I can't see what where it is. In a moment of desperation I tape a magnet to a screwdriver (very securely) and wiggle it down. Look down the hole again and there is this big metal thing (iron since magnetic) that is moving around as well (perhaps just a tappet)

This is looking like a "pull the engine out and recover valve keeper and do other work while I'm there" isn't it?

If the engine is a 1275 (not an S block) the keeper is sitting in the cam follower (lifter). The lifter can't go anywhere, only up and down.

If it's an S motor or a smallbore, you have probably pulled the lifter out of it's guide hole, and it's laying in the `valve chest' If so, take the 2 side covers off and retrieve it.

As for seal changing, IMO it's faster and safer to pull the head and do it on the bench. Particularly if you have strong valve springs.
Why? Things can go wrong, doing it in situ- like valve collets/keepers being dropped, or them going into orbit to the back of the shed.

[edit] I now see it's a 998, sorry I missed that bit when I replied.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not something to be too concerned about...people have been "hotting up" Mini's since day one...have a look for other mods like high compression, porting and polishing etc

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"Show me the Mini!"

It may have a cooper head 12G295???

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Like doc said pull the rear tappet covers off the block and retrieve your collet. No biggie. Replace the gaskets while there as they are usually hard as .... and brittle.

But once again like doc said its easier to remove cylinder head.

your safer and can also get a good look in the bores and also check if your guides are worn.

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll take off the cylinder head - time to study the haynes manual for a bit.

Out of curiosity, is it possible to replace rings while the head is off? If I've got access to it while its off I'd like to do it while I'm there. Anything else to look out for while i'm there? (I am a massive engine newbie as you might be able to tell by now)

You need to pull the engine and gearbox out to do the rings.

When undoing the head bolts, start at the ends and work your way in to the middle.
Undo the 4 small rocker post nuts first.
Wiggle each pushrod whilst lifting it out, this stops it pulling the cam follower up and out like you did already.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Looks like a good excuse to pull motor and do work to it..........new cam, o/s pistons, port job, etc etc