Believe it or not, my motor has never leaked a single drop. But recently it has developed a slow leak from where the rod change enters the gearbox. Is there any possibility of fixing this with the engine in the car?

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Absolutely, but it won't last long.

Here's a kit with all you need: http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/MSSK050.aspx

It requires you lying on your back getting oil dripped on your forehead while trying to tap out the roll pins from the selector connection bush thingy out. From memory, put it in 3rd or 4th gear, then you only need to take the one roll pin out (closest to the gearbox) and move the shaft back do you can get access to the install the seals.

You're old seal needs to come out, the metal part goes in first, then the seal (make sure it's flat surface out) and then the bellows on top to catch any oil. Eventually it will leak again and the bellows will fill up with oil and time to change the seal again.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Brilliant, sounds like heaps of fun.

When you say it won't last long...
A. Why? Just because it's a Mini and they're leaky, leaky bastards?
B. How long is not long? Weeks, months, year?

Thanks,

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Depends! It leaks because it's badly designed in the first place (Cheap re-engineer of what was perfect to begin with, John Cooper's remote change) but also because it wears the seal via 1000's of gear changes.

Each time you push or pull the gear lever if wears the seal. IMO Those type of seals are usually used to seal spinning joints (in the case of diff) rather than push/pull.

To answer your original question, months perhaps? The leak will surely be much slower than not having the kit installed.

Mine leaks from other places... Bottom line: Minis leak. Get used to it! Embrace it! Sleep better at night

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

No! Never! Fight 'til the end!!

If I have to change this thing more than once a year, I reckon this is the go. Anyone ever ponied up for the little gadget?
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/MSG13.aspx

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

Now why didn't they have this available when I had a rod change?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Looks like a clever idea?

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http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

I make my own (CNC Machined),
far better design than any of the others
Matt
0407 135 656
ReadSpeed Mini Mecca
(07) 3399 9999
& yes i have them in stock
& yes i can post it with a new seal for $30

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Can't argue with that!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I would go for TheMiniMan's bush to stop the leaks.

That Minispares coupling is just asking for trouble. I can see the pins eventually walking out of it.
I would much prefer a good quality Apex uni joint as the coupling.

John Smidt at Mini Kingdom has new, hardened couplings in stock. Made in Australia...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I actually have one of these. it is really really good. Makes taking out the coupling so easy.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Get Matts one. No stuffing around...except for installing it

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Tim

There are two seperate parts being talked about here.
One is the oil seal where the rod link goes into the 'box MSSK050; and the other one MSG13 is to replace the pinned joint.

Which one are you referring to please Matt?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Matt is referring to his oil seal leak stopper kit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.