Hey,

I've got an oil leak and I'm pretty sure its coming from the fuel pump gasket (at the rear of the block)

Any tips and/or pointers of the best way to go about it? will i need other gaskets after removing exhaust manifold and carbs etc?

Thanks - Milly

_________________
Looking for a set of Genuine rear lenses or lights LUCAS AL136

If you have small / dexterous hands you can do it without removing 1/2 the engine. I did it that way last time and although it was some effort with twin carbs and LCB extractors, is doable.

The only real main pointer I have for you is that when you reinsert the fuel pump, you run the inside of the flat lever that the cam pushes on against the inside of the block so that it goes in nice and easy.

_________________
"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

The only tip I have is buy the alcohol before starting the job....

_________________
The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

haha... it's a one of those jobs is it...

twin carbs and heat shield look like they will defy have to come off. got a feeling its gunna be a pain!

_________________
Looking for a set of Genuine rear lenses or lights LUCAS AL136

My tip related to the Goss mechanical pump (fitted between 65 and 75)
If you grind the webbing of the casting on the pump body near the bolts you can actually swing a spanner easily from above.

Also, there is a spacer between the pump and the engine block, there is a gasket on each side of the spacer.
Thin spacer of about 5mm = Goss Australian made pump
Thick spacer of about 10-12mm = English pump.
The spacers are known to crack and leak.

With twin carbs I just remove the left hand carby to get to the pump.

I ground the ring end of a sidchrome ring/OE spanner thin, cut the spanner in half, then welded it together in an L shape.
I also bent the shank slightly where it joins the ring end, so it's square to the bore.
Much easier to swing around in there now and I can flip it over easily too. Clears the Goss pump casting fine.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I use a 1/4 drive tube socket and stubby wobble ratchet. Glue the gaskets and spacers as one piece with the likes of 3bond, don't use silicone. From memory, some had bolts and others had stud/nuts, the stud nuts type is easier, if yours is bolt type grab 2 manifold studs from auto shop.

And make sure you get the correct pump. There are different ones. Or.... Fit a blanking plate and go to one of my Electronic Fuel pumps ($50 post free) and fit it at the back in the rear sub frame with an inline filter before the pump...

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I managed to get mine off today. I removed the intake manifold and got down the back with a 3/8″ ratchet with a uni joint. It was done in minutes.

I replaced mine once, later when the engine came out it got removed and replaced with a electric pump.

_________________
Respect mine and I'll respect yours.