Does anyone have any photos of how much you need to grind off the calliper (back of bleed nipple boss) to get a LS contessa to fit.
I thought fitting 3mm spacers may get me out of trouble, but no such luck.

no photo, but I started to do one by the side of a racetrack a few months ago. I got a paint pen and marked the caliper, then put the wheel on and turned it a bit to mark the paint, filed, repeated, filed, repeated.... but then the balance weight on the wheel hit somewhere else so I gave up and put my normal wheels back on

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Put the balance weights (use 7g ones) in a single row in the middle.
I fond it works better on contessas than having inner and outer weights.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Thanks for the comments & pics

Just remember brake mods raise legality issues... some paint or burnt on grease may allow you to dictate the discussion date, shiny or fresh rust may not

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Is this an issue with the genuine AP callipers or the aftermarket minispares callipers?

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Justin

I think it's an issue with all of them. I've seen original Lockheed calipers ground there too.
Don't grind the boss (or tighten the bleed nipple) any more than you have to. Grinding there weakens the boss, and being cast iron it can (and does) break off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.