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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:30 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Southern Highlands
What combination of engine & gearbox steady's are recommended for arod change box?
clutch side engine steady & two lower gearbox steady's or two upper engine steady's & a single lower one?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 4:54 am 
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848cc
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I use 2 top ones and 1 lower one under the clutch. Never had a problem


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:04 am 
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Location: Southern Highlands
leonrjohnson wrote:
I use 2 top ones and 1 lower one under the clutch. Never had a problem


I would be interested to know where you sourced that shorter adjustable radiator side engine steady.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:13 am 
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848cc
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junior wrote:
leonrjohnson wrote:
I use 2 top ones and 1 lower one under the clutch. Never had a problem


I would be interested to know where you sourced that shorter adjustable radiator side engine steady.




I made it myself out of an original one. Cut and threaded it , and made the threaded tube.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:29 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
leonrjohnson wrote:
junior wrote:
leonrjohnson wrote:
I use 2 top ones and 1 lower one under the clutch. Never had a problem


I would be interested to know where you sourced that shorter adjustable radiator side engine steady.




I made it myself out of an original one. Cut and threaded it , and made the threaded tube.


Josh, I can make you one. I did one recently for Laingy's van.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:50 am 
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848cc
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http://www.minispares.com/product/Class ... 0to%20shop

Can buy them too.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:57 am 
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Does the lower steady make much difference? I've only ever had the top two (as they came from the factory, I think).


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:05 am 
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With 2 top steadies you will still get a horizontal force reaction through the engine mounts due to engine torque.
Adding a lower one overcomes this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:06 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
With 2 top steadies you will still get a horizontal force reaction through the engine mounts due to engine torque.
Adding a lower one overcomes this.


But what difference does that make for the driver?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:35 am 
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848cc
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Irish Yobbo wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
With 2 top steadies you will still get a horizontal force reaction through the engine mounts due to engine torque.
Adding a lower one overcomes this.


But what difference does that make for the driver?


I cant tell any difference as a driver whether the lower steady is fitted or not, but it sure saves chewing out the engine mount under the clutch!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:52 am 
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leonrjohnson wrote:
Irish Yobbo wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
With 2 top steadies you will still get a horizontal force reaction through the engine mounts due to engine torque.
Adding a lower one overcomes this.


But what difference does that make for the driver?


I cant tell any difference as a driver whether the lower steady is fitted or not, but it sure saves chewing out the engine mount under the clutch!


Probably not an issue with the mountains of torque generated by my 998 :)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:34 am 
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Way back in the early 60s when all we could buy was an 850 with the magic wand gearshift (except the well heeled who could afford a 997 Cooper) it was common to fit a lower steady. Mine had it on the radiator side, not the clutch.
It helped a lot, you really needed it if fitting extractors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Location: Wollongong NSW
With my rod change box - I use the 2 top steadies + 2 lower steadies from minispares, I was using the poly bushes in them too but was just too stiff. The engine sits in nice and tight and doesn't move around at all

Cheers
James

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:52 pm 
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With the MG Metro engine in my Moke the HIF float chamber was always bouncing off the firewall. That was with 2 upper steadies and a lower clutch side one.

A combination of Matt Read steady bushes, those minispares adjustable rods and a thinner carby spacer finally sorted it.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:13 pm 
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Location: SE Melbourne
Just to be different I have a single top steady and two lower ones - been going for 3 years not a problem.

In my other mini I had 2 uppers and one lower but the upper one on the radiator side kept cracking the bracket or the firewall.


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