You can just remove the spring, and depending on who you ask, you can remove the stop nut too. In very rare cases the stop nut will protect over-extending and damage to the clutch. I keep mine on, because why not?

After bleeding the slave cylinder and making sure your clevis pins are in good order (too worn down and you will have a lot of pedal travel before the clutch arm even moves), I get an attractive assistant to push down the clutch pedal, and wind in the stop nut until it almost touches the cover.

Ummmm...could we please see a picture of the attractive assistant

also, the clutch arm often gets intentionally bent (you may have one) by a common workshop practice and oxy torch because the slave cylinder piston needs to move back down the cylinder bore because the flywheel goes back on the crank taper a little more each time it comes off....assuming the same flywheel is being used.

The idea of having the return spring and manual adjustment I think goes back to the days of carbon block release bearings, which if left wrongly adjusted, wore quickly. The modern release bearing is a lot more robust, most modern cars that have hydraulic clutch releases, don't use return springs. In the six trillion years I've been a mechanic I'd say probably a third of dead clutches I've seen have been caused by badly adjusted releases. The rest of them were usually bad driving.

I agree. I also flung the spring and the stop nuts years ago with no ill effects.
It's worth noting that the Rover Minis use a verto clutch with similar clutch arm and slave cylinder, and no adjustment stop. Yes I know their release bearing is different.

BTW, a Hillman Imp in 1963 had a carbon release bearing and was self adjusting. It's not a new idea.