I'm a bit unfamiliar with the gearbox
Can anyone give me a better idea of where these live please?

rotate the selector rod anti clockwise so that it disengages from the bell crank levers

I'm okay about which synchro's / hubs to turn to do the actual locking.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

You need to take the diff housing off first, to see what you are doing.
Then remove the detent ball and spring from the RH side , and pull the blocking sleeve out.
THEN, you can make sure it's in neutral, and rotate the selector rod (sticking out the back) anti-clockwise so the lever end of it clears the 3 bell crank lever slots.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah that makes a bit more sense now, thanks very much Doc
Explains why I couldn't see things too

I suppose the locking is sufficient to undo the Ist motion shaft nut?
The drop gear end that is?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Yes. Lock it in 1st gear and 4th gear for all 4 synchro boxes including rodchange ones.
[3 synchro ones use 2nd & 4th gear, because 1st is weak].

[edit] NEVER use 2nd and 3rd. A mate did this with his A/H Sprite gearbox and it broke teeth off.
Tooth load is least when ratios are far apart (like 1st + 4th).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Awesome, thats great. I can get started
Thanks

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Sad to say I made this mistake once, wrecked a nice looking laygear & 3rd

cheers,

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

Well that was a little easier than I anticipated.
Once the rod change is out of the way the gears just push apart.
Now have the 1st motion gear removed, two of us required to undo the locknut tho' with me standing on the upturned 'box.
Also dismantled the crown wheel and ready to go back in.
Does anyone know what the torque is for ARB bolts into a Quaife LSD??
Have asked Quaife but they are on Pommie clock.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

ditto... broke dad's MK2 box so had to give him mine

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Hi Doc

I did a 3 sychro box & used 2nd & 4th gear to lock & broke tooth on 2nd gear. I found out after researching that reverse & 4th are better & that is what i used to sucessfully get the main nut undone.

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1275

I was pretty sure it's Leyland Aust's Black Book manual that recommends use 2nd & 4th on 3 synchro boxes.

[edit]
oops my bad, on page f-6 it says use 1st & 4th IF the box has B form gears. For early boxes with A form gears it says use a `suitable jig' to hold the drive flanges, don't lock gears. No idea what sort of jig.

I haven't done a 3 synchro for many years (that one was a Sprite box I think) and back then I used 1st and 4th.

I'm sure the `lock 2nd & 4th for 3 synchro boxes' was stated in a manual, I just need to find which one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Used 2nd & 4th on a 3spd today (B form gears) no problems
Needed a long breaker bar with 300mm extension for the pinion nut