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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 12:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:30 pm
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Location: Wellington NZ
Hey guys,

Being new to this I'm unsure about what parts I should go for if there's a mini at the local wreckers.

There's currently an austin mini 1000 there and for the most part everything's there and intact.

Also my gear lever has a lot of play in it to the point where I struggle to find the gears, especially first. Is this issue caused near the gear stick side of things ie the housing underneath the stick or down the track at the actual gears? (Again I'm completely new to this so forgive some of the silly questions)

So far I've picked up a few interior bits that mine was missing or was broken like the door cards, one vent, handles, etc.

Also there's lots of pulsars with dizzys still in them, I'm not sure which one I currently have but if I can grab one of those is it worth it?

Appreciate any help,
Cheers!

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:32 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Pull the cap off the Pulsar dizzys, if they have points, leave them be. You want one marked D4R83 or D4R85.

Note the dizzy must be off a Nissan N12 Pulsar (or early Holden Astra), not the later one with the GM family 2 motor, which are different.

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:36 pm 
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definitely worth it, you can wash the engine and then drive away, right Kev?

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:44 pm 
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1360cc
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Assuming your car is a locally built Mini be careful with body parts from the Austin Mini 1000 as it was produced in the UK and is different in some ways to Australian produced cars. The UK doors have internal hinges and are a slightly different design to the Oz ones.

Have you fitted the door cards yet?

Regarding the play in gear selection you will need to provide a description of your car (model, year) as there were several different gear change mechanisms used over the life of the Mini.

P.S. Consider putting your car's description in your signature panel so it's always there for reference by others.

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 1:44 pm 
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Diesel27 wrote:
definitely worth it, you can wash the engine and then drive away, right Kev?

Yeah, once you time it right, (not static), hey. :lol: :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 2:54 pm 
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lol
at least I did not try and spil time it.

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 3:02 pm 
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what wreckers is it at please, I may want something from it?
cheers

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 5:08 pm 
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waiting on a reply to the last question, also

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 5:24 pm 
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Take the whole car I say

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:30 pm
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Location: Wellington NZ
Wellington NZ unfortunately, apologies, will update my location too along with the vehicle details in the signature.

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 6:59 pm 
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Diesel27 wrote:
what wreckers is it at please, I may want something from it?
cheers

Lol I was going to ask the same thing... "so...uh..,*cough*... where exactly is this Austin Mini...you know, just out of interest..?"

"Oh damn it's gone now"

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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2015 7:02 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2011 3:30 pm
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Location: Wellington NZ
Had a friend look at the mini today to point out some points I need to work on/replace and needed some specific info on this please!

He recommended an electronic dizzy as I plan to keep the mini for a long time and the current dizzy needs just about everything replaced. Which dizzy's should I go for given that I plan to upgrade to a 1275 engine within the next month or so?

Here's a listing on trademe for a conversion kit, is that worth it?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 900979.htm
I currently have a 45D with points (90% sure)

There's way more variety if I buy from somewhere like minisport but the shipping is going to be ridiculous depending on what I get.

In regards to the play in the gear lever, I had a closer look at it earlier and the rod change little housing seems completely loose, to the point where if I move the stick far right I think it actually hits the chassis under the car. I assume that's going to need to be addressed as well once I raise her off the ground? Do you guys reckon that's the main reason for the play?

Going to go for a warrant of fitness during the week and hopefully it's a non existent list of things to fix or at least a short one! Then I'll finally be able to drive it out of the military camp (quite lucky that I can take it for a spin whenever currently)

Cheers,
Shaan

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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2015 8:48 pm 
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best off starting a new thread to ask new questions

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