RE-13 mate
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| what cam should i go for? + other questions https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8940 |
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| Author: | I_AM_THE_WAHL [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 12:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | what cam should i go for? + other questions |
ok people i droped the head off to get some work done to it namely new seats guides and some port work done, now all i need to know is which way do i go in terms of cam. ive had a look at the crow cam range as well as the wade cams but still a bit unshure and after reading a bit of vizards book i think im stiil bewilderd engine specs 998 +30 thou 1 3/4 su extractors thanks. |
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| Author: | willy [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 1:42 am ] |
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RE-13 mate
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| Author: | supercharged 850 [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:53 am ] |
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There are 2 common "factory" cams that are good on a 998 - the good old 731 cam, or a 544 cam. Both are relatively cheap, but older in design than, say, an RE13 cam. I am quite fond of the 731 cam. It has a lumpy idle, good bottom end and is quite safe for road use. Here's something to read.... http://www.hotbricks.org.au/articles/camshafts.html Im sure somebody else can tell you of some other cams, hopefully somebody has had some experience with the RE13 I mentioned. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 6:55 am ] |
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I have recently run a 731, and a Camtech VP3, and an RE-13. No comparison. The RE-13 gives a much wider torque band than the others, it's better power all the way up too. Not to mention cheaper.. 
If you send Russell Engineering your cam, you will get it back for ~$120, + postage. For a 998 or 1098 you don't need hi-lift rockers, stocko will do. For a 1275 it depends.. stock are OK for road use, but I like my 1.5s for more power up high.. 
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| Author: | CPOCSM [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 7:39 am ] |
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Sorry to piggyback the thread as I was about to ask the same question. RE-13 it is for me. Was going to put a 2 band out of an 1100 sprite but looked very similar to the STD 998cc cam. Sorry WAHL - for hijacking...by the way - sounds virtually the same as to what I am doing - Hypateks are all balanced and matched to bore, honing done - however thinking of cheating and putting a 1100 crank in(have 2 x new ones here) - really stuff the RTA!!! Are you building it yourself?? Go the Hi lifts - just dont do what I did and use STD springs - they break...lol Give you a very good boot in the bum at about 2500rpm Hooroo Rob Forsyth Miniot!! |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 8:27 am ] |
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With hi lift rockers, I run the C-AEA526 springs- good for up to .495" lift, and 8000+ rpm...
They have 1 less coil than S springs, so don't get coil bound. RE-13 cam and 1.5 forged rockers gives about .450" valve lift. <edit> on smallbore heads you need to also check clearance between guide and spring cap. Push guides in 1mm or so more if you need to. |
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| Author: | I_AM_THE_WAHL [ Sun Jul 10, 2005 10:52 am ] |
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thanks guys i will be doing the rebuild my self and will probably have many more questions for you. any ways im off to pull the rest of the motor apart ....... |
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| Author: | I_AM_THE_WAHL [ Mon Jul 11, 2005 10:03 pm ] |
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ok started to pull the motor down flywheel cover off all the outward bits of the clutch off. but tell me is ther some trick to getting the flywheel off hav allready stripped 3 high tensile bolts and i dont unfortuantly have an oxy at the moment....... i didnt think tey where that tight as the last time i did a clutch (was about 14 years ago my first mini) i used a slightly modifide pressure plate and it fell off help anybody.... |
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Jul 11, 2005 10:59 pm ] |
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I believe you need a flywheel puller.. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jul 11, 2005 11:04 pm ] |
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If the 3/8" UNF holes in flywheel are stripped, tap them out to 7/16" UNF and get some new Grade 8 bolts to suit. OIL the threads.. less likely to bind up then strip out.
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| Author: | I_AM_THE_WAHL [ Thu Jul 14, 2005 10:13 pm ] |
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ok still working out niggles now is it nessasary to go for double valve spring or what should i go for also got this as a reply from wade cams re cam sugestion Profile Actuation Make/Model R/Ratio 446B Flat Tappet BMC "A" Series 848 - 1275 In1.2 Ex 1.2 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cam Lift Duration Duration Valve Valve Cam Lift Phase Adv @050 Clr Lift tdc <) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Intake 295 290 228 0.014 0.3396 072 109 Exhaust 295 290 228 0.014 0.3396 055 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Timing Timing Adv @050 Open Close Open Close Exhaust 72 38 46 2 Intake 34 76 8 40 72 10 Deg Over-lap Deg Over-lap Max Lift In 105 Atdc Max Lift Ex 113 Btdc how is this in comparison say to the re-13 |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Jul 14, 2005 10:26 pm ] |
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Very hard to follow that info as the (lack of) page formatting shifted your columns around.. Dunno what GR's supposed duration of the RE-13 is, but- measured when I installed it in mine, with 1.5 forged rockers at .020" clearance, I got 277* intake duration and 286* exhaust. Valve lift with stock rockers is .360", with the 1.5s I have .450".
Note these are measured figures, not theoretical. |
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| Author: | GeoffP [ Fri Jul 15, 2005 7:31 pm ] |
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I_AM_THE_WAHL wrote: ok still working out niggles now is it nessasary to go for double valve spring or what should i go for
also got this as a reply from wade cams re cam sugestion Profile 446B Gday I've got the 446B cam and I'm very happy with it. I think from previous conversations with DrMini the specs are similar-ish to the RE-13 cam. It probably doesn't rev quite as high though. Its got less lift (.425" with 1.5's) and a fraction longer duration (290* in and ex) With the 1.5 rockers it pulls 7000rpm easy - I haven't tried to go much more than that. When my mate set it up for me he advanced it to 101.5* ATDC instead of the recommended 105* so that its more "torquey". I'm not sure how much difference it makes that you have a 998, but i know that I can definitely recommend it for 1275's. From what i've read around here though, you'd probably be just as happy with the RE-13 Also the wade cam seemed to be well made too - the measured figures exactly matched the quoted figures. Geoff EDIT: also to give you some idea of how the cam performs - with my slippery bridgestone tyres spinning the whole way through first gear i timed 0-100kmh in 9.9 secs - obviously theres more to it than just the cam but it does go very well... |
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