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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:28 pm 
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848cc
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Well, this time next month I'll be pulling my trusty new Carlex trailer down to Phillip Island loaded up with 200kg of Kawasaki. I've already sourced the towbar itself, the trailer is on order, and the bike is in pieces getting ready for it's debut. The last item on the list is wiring up the trusty Rover for the trailer.

Any helpful tips or words of wisdom?
Does anyone think a Bypass Relay is necessary?
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:37 pm 
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What's the weight of the trailer? Towing with a mini scares the hell out of me but if you're game enough, hats off to you.

I'd imagine the mini any trailer would be at the mercy of any passing vehicles, so keep a wide berth.

Is your new trailer braked? I understand you only need brakes if the gross weight of the trailer is over 750kg but electronic Brakes and a brake controller seems like extra insurance in my head as the mini may get pushed around a fair bit under braking. Just my two cents

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... ing-stuff/

Guessworks puts the maximum towing capacity of a mini just over 400 kgs


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 6:44 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
One of the easier jobs to wire. All the wires you need (brake, park, L/R Indicators) are right there beneath the boot hinges inside the boot, and there's two handy rubber grommets to pass the wiring through as well at the front or rear of the fuel tank.

Good luck with the towing!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:11 pm 
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It would be good if the trailer lights are LED type. Mini switches do not like the extra load of trailer incadesent Bulbs.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:22 pm 
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Convertible Mini wrote:
It would be good if the trailer lights are LED type. Mini switches do not like the extra load of trailer incadesent Bulbs.

/\
Brilliant thinking!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:23 pm 
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69k1100 wrote:
What's the weight of the trailer? Towing with a mini scares the hell out of me but if you're game enough, hats off to you.
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... ing-stuff/
Guessworks puts the maximum towing capacity of a mini just over 400 kgs

Yep! It scares me a bit too, but I know I'm not the first one to do it. And yes, I also agree the towing capacity is 400kg. I spoke to the guys at Carlex at length, and the end weight of my trailer will be 111kg. Add the bike at 200kg, plus gear and fuel near 50kg and I'm certainly pushing the limits. I will be moving slow and steady, and hyper aware of passing trucks. :shock: The passenger seat, floormats, and any non-essentials will be removed from the car. This link goes to the Carlex Trailer brochure. I've bough the one on page 13, with a single wheel chock.

Convertible Mini wrote:
It would be good if the trailer lights are LED type. Mini switches do not like the extra load of trailer incadesent Bulbs.

And this is my question regarding the bypass relay. The trailer does not have LEDs. I guess I'll just have to "suck it and see". I can always add the relays later...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:38 pm 
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In my 63 I just made a plug in loom that avoids cutting the std loom and is completely removable.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:07 pm 
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Put as much gear in the car as possible- you want all the weight in the car you can.
Have you got a numberplate for the trailer? Dont forget it.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:26 pm 
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I would use connectors so its removable without cutting any of the wires etc

My GT I used piggy back spade connectors, so no cutting and easily removed if I no longer want it there.


Towing a trailer makes it very hard to stop.

My rear end mini-van trailer weighs in at 220kg (I went a bit overboard making the a-frame). Coming up to intersections etc I need to make sure I'm careful as it just keeps pushing you (freaked me out the other day approaching a round-a-bout and went to stop at last minute and locked up and I just kept going, just as well car on round-a-bout was turning)

But have towed it to Penrith and back (about 600km or so) up through the mountains and went ok.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:50 pm 
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Harley wrote:
Put as much gear in the car as possible- you want all the weight in the car you can.
Have you got a numberplate for the trailer? Dont forget it.


Hi Brian, would second what Harley said, don't make the car too light. You need some weight up front.
Because the Mini is such a shortie :) the weight of the trailer on the tow point will lift the front slightly.
Beware of reduced braking effort, especially if it rains.
Good luck and post some pics mate.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:35 pm 
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I used to tow a standard 6x4 trailer with my mini and just drove it normally I had 12 inch wheels and 8.4 inch discs other then that nothing special, I never pushed the car too hard or towed with too much in the trailer and never had any scares or frights, but what I did do was flog the drive line and chewed out CV and drive shaft couplings.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:42 pm 
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Thanks for the replies everyone, it's a bunch of great info.

Before I went down this path I did my research reading and found plenty of people who have towed up to 400kg, so I'm sure it can be done. Obviously I'll be pushing near 350kg, so I will be interested to remove as much unnecessary weight from the car as possible, then put as much gear inside the car as opposed to on the trailer. When I build the trailer, every care will be taken to mount the wheel chock in just the right place, centering the weight over the trailer axle an not on the tongue.

I will be driving with the utmost care and awareness. I'm not so worried about the load on the engine or the speed that I may travel, my thoughts are with the braking. I'll most certainly be leaving a generous gap.

Harley wrote:
Have you got a numberplate for the trailer? Dont forget it.

Thanks for the reminder, it's in the mail.

Bubbacluby wrote:
I would use connectors so its removable without cutting any of the wires etc
My GT I used piggy back spade connectors, so no cutting and easily removed if I no longer want it there.

I've got a bag full of these, which will make a small incision into the insulation, but if I ever remove them it's an easy bit of electrical tape to heal the wounds. I have my doubts as to the reliability of these connectors, if anyone has experience I'd love to hear it. My original plan was to simply cut each wire, solder all 3 together and cover with shrinkwrap. After invesitgating my boot, and finding some of these ScotchLok's already back there, I decided to continue the trend.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotchlok-Electri ... 03KQK6TQ/2

MiniBob wrote:
Hi Brian, would second what Harley said, don't make the car too light. You need some weight up front. Beware of reduced braking effort, especially if it rains.
Good luck and post some pics mate.

Holy crap I hope it doesn't rain. :shock:
And don't worry, the car won't be too light - I'll have gear and petrol up there which will easily amount to the weight of my leather seat. My goal is to not allow the combined weight of everything I take to the track surpass 400kg - regardless of it being in the car or on the trailer.

And I'll certainly post some pictures. I'll be the coolest guy on the road that weekend. 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:06 pm 
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Don't try and balance the trailer 50-50, it needs more weight over the front than the rear for stability.
Not a lot of weight, but it needs some.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:55 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
Don't try and balance the trailer 50-50, it needs more weight over the front than the rear for stability.
Not a lot of weight, but it needs some.


OK, good info. Thanks! :)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 2:24 pm 
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As a rule you should aim to have 10 percent of the total trailer weight as ball weight.

Stolen from a trailer manufactures THIS IS NOT GOSPEL!!!!

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