Having a little trouble understanding how to remove the flywheel on my 1978 998 motor as I want to inspect the clutch plate before I put the motor back in. If someone could tell me a easy way that makes sense I would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance poeeedad ( yes poeee's father)

You can find a "How-to" here.

I have a puller you can borrow if you want (Scott knows where I live at Clifton Springs and has my phone number).

I find the old-school ball joint popping method helps with this job too.

Load up the puller, hold a copper hammer against the flywheel boss and strike the opposite side of the boss with another copper hammer - presto off it pops!!

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

For difficult flywheels I... Pop an old bearing shell between the ring gear and starter hole to stop it spinning as I'm tightening the puller, pull out the flywheel bolt and put it back in with a spacer to stop the flywheel turning into a projectile, load up the puller, and get the MAPP gas gun onto heating the boss. Normally then tweaking the puller leads to "POP!" If that doesn't work then I get the boss back up to temp and use a 'soft' mallet to gently tap the flywheel through the starter hole while rotating it around.

If that doesn't work... Take a break and repeat later

I still have a smashed thumbnail from the first flywheel I did about 25 years ago. It flew 4 metres across the workshop when it let go and hit my hand as it went flying past me. Only did that once.

Getting the heat into the flywheel quickly is important, using the same method as described above but use boiling water to get some heat into flywheel, make sure your wearing some enclosed shoes otherwise your toes will get warm to

Hi Ron, did mine recently. What they all said above.
Used the largest puller available, some heat on the taper (stand behind the direction of any flywheel travel) rotate and gently tap thru starter hole.

I used a hot air paint remover gun

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

I don't like the idea of hitting flywheels. You have something that spins at 6000 rpm, your testicles are at a 90° angle to the rotation.
You don't want to do anything at all to the flywheel that could make it angry like hitting it with a hammer.

I use a big puller and some mild heat with a heat gun and they seem to come off gently compared to when I just used the puller.

Bashing the puller centre bolt (a Pommy tradition apparently) or the back of the flywheel do not improve the crank's thrust washer condition.
IMO if you need to belt it, your puller is too puny. Make a nice THICK one as I described in the how-to forum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What part of 'tap gently' isn't understood?

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Was not aimed at you Bob.
Aimed at people who use a sledge hammer on the bolt (destroying the one in my puller, which I had loaned...!)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I understood, I just leave the hammer in the toolbox till I really need it.

I never understand why people don't leave their flywheel bolt in, but screwed out a few mm, it'll catch the thing when it lets go...



How about a 3/4" steel puller that ended up with about 3mm of bend across the face of it?

Then a 40mm aluminium puller that still wouldn't shift it with an 8 ton hydraulic puller on the end of it done up as tight as it'll go?

I used a block of wood through the starter hole and hit that...

NEVER EVER OIL THE TAPER WHEN YOU PUT THE FLYWHEEL ON!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Yeah, and I said use a soft mallet. I've got one of those kincrome plastic replaceable head mallets which works perfectly if I ever need to tap the flywheel... And my puller is 1" thick... But you also don't want to over stress the three 3/8" threads either - a bit of heat and a gentle tap is much less painful than having to fix that IMO.