Hi all,

I was just wondering if anyone has any tricks or tips into getting the trim around the back windows and the trim around the windup window doors to really pop and shine?

Mine look to be in fair condition, but they're just a little dull even after a good wash

James

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

I always use, Bright Shine, its great, its in a yellow tin and full of cotton wool soaked in a powdery stuff that really does the job.

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Thanks Davo,

Just did a quick search on the brite Shine stuff and it appears to be NLA

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Metal polish or cut and polish and some fine steel wool ( the fine home brand soap wool pads at the supermarket) if its the rear side windows

If its the trim in the back window rubber and its gone brown you need to replace it with new locking strip

https://www.autobarn.com.au/eagleone-ne ... 0ml-454751

http://www.derek.com.au/autosol.html half way down this page is the eagle one product to use

Steel wool followed by wadding polish, which I think is the generic name for bright-shine.
Never use alloy wheel or general metal polish. Its different stuff from chrome polish.

I use Autosol metal polish.

And expect black fingers or hands

I usually mix some metal polish with some cut and polish with stainless and chrome and use a small buffing wheel on a drill that I get off my brother inlaw when he thinks there worn out at his business but still good enough for me to use

Depends just how far you want to go and what tools you have available. If you really want to bring them back to new (or even better than new) then a 6 inch buffing wheel with compound then polish is the way to go. In the case of the trim on the front doors you will need to remove the trim, but be aware of the technique to do this as they are easily damaged. WRT the rear windows, remove them from the car, mask the glass and proceed to buff, making sure to manage the heat as it may cause the glass to crack. This is a very time consuming process but you will end up with a great outcome.

For the steel wool go to bunnings and buy 0000 steel wool it is very fine.

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

The trim around the windup window door (at least on the Deluxe, I assume Clubman as well) is stainless steel, so it will stand up to fairly aggressive polishing. If its deeply scratched you can use fine wet and dry paper to polish out the high spots and minimise the appearance of the scratches, then machine buff the shine back into it.

The rear side window frames are chromed so require more care.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

That's interesting because, in my experience which is really restricted to cars from about 1964 to 1970, the trim on the front doors and the frame of the rear quarter windows are all stainless. The latch on the rear quarter windows is chromed and should be treated carefully as it will rub through.
Richard

I didn't know that, I'm pretty certain the earlier ones were chromed. Maybe it's like bumpers and grill moustaches where different materials were used at different times. Either way - it is important to ascertain what you're trying to polish before you get carried away and do anything irreversible.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Thanks for the info everyone -

My front trim and rear surrounds look to be the same material - quite dull like stainless I'd assume.

Am I able to use these same suggestions on my bumper bars? the nerfs are really really shiny but the front and rear bars look dull-ish like my window trim

James

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

James, stainless steel bumper bars are very difficult to restore because even an apparent good bumper usually has literally hundreds of little stone chips and tiny dents. The more you buff and polish them, the more the marks seem to show. The bars are only about 30 thou thick and if you whiz and buff out the imperfections there is a very strong chance that you will go right through the bar itself to make a hole.

I suggest massaging out small dents and then using wet and dry starting at about 360 then working your way through 400, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 followed by compound and polish. You will not get rid of all the marks but they will be very presentable and you would have at least saved a bumper. Set aside hours and hours and hours and hours and plenty of elbow grease! The price you pay for a top piece.

Good luck.