Hi Folks, I need some advice on whether its cheaper to repair vs replace the front panel. As you can see the front panel has copped some dents and someone has bent back the grill section to mount an oil cooler. Also in pic one the inner guard has a minor dent too. I think I know the answer but putting it out there.

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67 Deluxe under going full resto

I would strip it all first, inside and out. There could be rust lurking under the
bumper lip. But if it's just bent up, I would try and beat it out, a bit of heat will help a lot if you try

I`d fix that, it`s no-where-near as bad as some we have already fixed
you should see the bad ones

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Looks ok, should come out with a little work. The original panels are much better than the repro's.

Here is an example of a few love taps, looked pretty good with an inch of bog sculpture over it

I replaced mine but that's only because I had a donor front end to replace it with. I'd personally drill out the spot welds on he bumper lip and the number plate brackets, this way when you're reshaping it you just have a smooth surface.

Thanks for the advice. I've never drilled out a mini spot weld. Do people use drill depth guides or a standard size drill bit?

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67 Deluxe under going full resto

You can buy special spot weld drill bits from places like VG auto paints.
The idea is drill thru 1 panel only.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

They are a real pleasure to use too compared to grinding a panel away. Pretty cheap too.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I agree, repair what you have. Mine was worse and came up really well....

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I've ordered the drill bit and will start on the paint removal. I've used those resin materials discs for removing paint but they don't last. I want to avoid digging into the metal with a flap disc. Any recommendations?

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67 Deluxe under going full resto

There's quite a few posts on here about paint removal. Suggest you do a search using terms such as paint, removal, cling, wrap, that way you'll see suggestions made by a lot of people over an extended period rather than just those who are currently reading your post today.

... and there's a few topics in the Forum's How To section that cover bodywork, such as this one.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=60141

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

One question I can't seam to find an answer on despite searching is how how long you've got to strip, repair and prime before surface rust gets in.

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67 Deluxe under going full resto

I wouldn't stress about surface rust, if it's in a garage you have a moth or more before you notice any bright orange spots, and even then they're easily treated.

If you treat surface with phosphoric acid it converts the rust to iron phosphate, which will act as a barrier and buy you more time.