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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:42 am 
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Location: Holt ACT
All of the interior trim which was in my 68 Deluxe before it was stripped naked is in good overall condition (most is near perfect) and will be refitted once the shell comes home. The single exception is the expected warping of the door cards. I have weighted them down for long periods of time, but they bounce back to their former shape on short order. Does anyone have a proven and foolproof way get them to stay flat?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:11 pm 
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Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:49 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..

I will need to do this on the S as trying hard to keep as many original parts as possible. I did hear about some one using a steamer like a wall paper remover type steamer. Nice to hear you had success with this method Doc, I will try give it a go at some point, I wonder in addition to sealing the door cavities spraying contact adhesive adhesive or applying some kind of wax coating coating on the back of the door card to seal it would also help.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:56 pm 
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Location: Holt ACT
drmini in aust wrote:
Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..


Thanks, Kevin. I had thought about doing that but wanted to sure it'd work and wouldn't destroy the backing board.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:01 pm 
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68Rusty wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..

I will need to do this on the S as trying hard to keep as many original parts as possible. I did hear about some one using a steamer like a wall paper remover type steamer. Nice to hear you had success with this method Doc, I will try give it a go at some point, I wonder in addition to sealing the door cavities spraying contact adhesive adhesive or applying some kind of wax coating coating on the back of the door card to seal it would also help.

Forgot to mention,
I gave the back of the cards 2 coats of fibreglass resin when dry.
[edit] one card was cracked, I used fibreglass mat to strengthen it in that spot, when I did it. Clamped it flat again overnight.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:16 pm 
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Location: Holt ACT
drmini in aust wrote:
68Rusty wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..

I will need to do this on the S as trying hard to keep as many original parts as possible. I did hear about some one using a steamer like a wall paper remover type steamer. Nice to hear you had success with this method Doc, I will try give it a go at some point, I wonder in addition to sealing the door cavities spraying contact adhesive adhesive or applying some kind of wax coating coating on the back of the door card to seal it would also help.

Forgot to mention,
I gave the back of the cards 2 coats of fibreglass resin when dry.
[edit] one card was cracked, I used fibreglass mat to strengthen it in that spot, when I did it. Clamped it flat again overnight.


Roger. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:24 pm 
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If the boards aren't in very good shape you can carefully peel the vinyl and padding off them and use the old board as a template to make new ones. Then glue the vinyl back on. Its quite hard to find board of the correct thickness, but you can wizz a little bit off the rough side with a belt sander.

Tim

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:58 pm 
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Timbo wrote:
If the boards aren't in very good shape you can carefully peel the vinyl and padding off them and use the old board as a template to make new ones. Then glue the vinyl back on. Its quite hard to find board of the correct thickness, but you can wizz a little bit off the rough side with a belt sander.

Tim


Thankfully mine are in really good nick apart from the warpiness. Newton Commercial in the UK sell complete interior trim kits for Australian Minis but do not /will not sell the door cards separately even they do for all the UK variants.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 2:11 pm 
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I think Dash Original in South Australia may have been making door cards.
Someone was making them locally.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:12 pm 
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DavidE wrote:
Timbo wrote:
If the boards aren't in very good shape you can carefully peel the vinyl and padding off them and use the old board as a template to make new ones. Then glue the vinyl back on. Its quite hard to find board of the correct thickness, but you can wizz a little bit off the rough side with a belt sander.

Tim


Thankfully mine are in really good nick apart from the warpiness. Newton Commercial in the UK sell complete interior trim kits for Australian Minis but do not /will not sell the door cards separately even they do for all the UK variants.

Cheers

One thing to note with the Newton cards is the vinyl foam backing is about 2mm thick, this made the whole card very slightly oversize. It was difficult to push the card up in to the stainless steel runner as it was designed for the Australian cards which vinyl backing seemed a lot flatter. It can be overcome and if it was possible to open up the stainless steel runner evenly without denying it , it would be easier.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:58 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
I think Dash Original in South Australia may have been making door cards.
Someone was making them locally.

They still have them listed on their website as available.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 6:20 am 
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Wouldn't it be simpler to make new door cards from 3 mm ply?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:39 am 
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Convertible Mini wrote:
Wouldn't it be simpler to make new door cards from 3 mm ply?


In a word, No. Certainly not for the reasons that I outlined in my original posting.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:39 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Wet them well with water, then clamp them flat until dry. I did mine this way, I used thick plywood and a bunch of house bricks.
That was 5 years ago and they are still flat.

When trimming the doors, cover all the openings with plastic to keep dampness away from the door cards in future..


One door card done with good results, thanks.


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