The 1293 build is about to come together...very little of the original engine paint still on the 1098 power unit.

Can anyone help with a code that might be recognized here in Canada?

And any other suggestions...

Thanks!

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

If you want the cooper S greeny/gold colour there is reference in this thread to a dodge colour. Might be something you can get over there.


viewtopic.php?f=2&t=86451&hilit=engine+paint+code

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1972 Leyland Mini Clubman
2000 Honda CBR929RR

Thanks! Will see what I can do with DUCO code!

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

Hi Rick,

As mentioned above this is as close to the original colour that I have found so far.

" . . . AMBER SHERWOOD F3 is a 1970 Dodge colour and most companies should have the same comparable mix."

Cheers.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Thank you Dave!

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

Well I took ROO along to the Lordco store in Port Coquitlam where they can scan and prepare paints.

No problem scanning the 'Bold As Brass' but we were reduced to cleaning off a bit of the valve cover and offering up paint cards...a Ford metallic green looks to be the closest match.

Both paints ordered...so ROO's new 1293 power unit build will be in 'Aussie' colours (heat primer/base/clear) and the engine bay will be refreshed too.

Dry build of the engine showed too tight main cap clearances so align hone...otherwise all clearances are on spec.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

Don't give it too little end float on the crank if it's going to get a rev. The crank webs flex.
I found out the hard way that .003" is too little. It trashed the thrust washers and `almost' spun the centre main shells.
I run .006-.007" now, for Nb historic race motors they use .007" minimum.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My Late friend JACK READ From READ SPEED, MINI MECCA always suggested thinning out the thrust washer half that sits in the Bearing cap so it is just there for the ride and to keep the top half in place so when the crankshaft flexes it does not put any sideways pressure on Cap. Some late model engines are made with no thrust on actual caps.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I am using Swiftune cam that puts the power into the 1,500/2,000 to 5,000 rpm range so no high revs likely to occur. cruising at interstate speeds motor should only see 4,200-4,400 rpms with 3.44:1 FD.

The 1293 build is to help ROO climb around in our mountains, especially with a load. Essentially standard 1098 with 3.65:1 FD is quite alright in the city, gets off the line with other traffic and on the flattish bits.

When we had to climb 5,000 feet over the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming (9,000 foot pass), ROO's 1098 was a steady but slow little soldier on the steeper bit.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!

The paint for the 1293 unit to go in ROO will be painted with a FORD N. America colour 'Lime Gold', which was a virtual dead match for the cleanest paint we could find on the factory's 1098 from 1973.

I matched cards to paint and then had the paint specialists agree...sounds odd. We'll see.

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Select a gear, bring up the revs and release the clutch...off you go!