Hi all I am only new here, was wondering if anyone could help me with my S running hot. Sometimes it sit about 185 - 190 but when speed increases over 80 is it will get up to 200 and further, it has not boild yet but I don't want to push it, I have flushed the system but I'm not sure if the rad is a proper Cooper s how can I tell and also I have taken the thermostat out which helped a little not much, should I put it back in as I've been told yes they should run with a thermo in
Cheers
Glenn

Put the thermostat back in, the water flows too fast without it and doesn't get enough time to cool in the radiator

No difference between an S radiator and a standard car (deluxe or otherwise).

Best thing to do is remove the radiator, have it checked and cleaned properly, flush the block with a garden hose in the top radiator hose (do it while the thermostat is still out)

While the radiator is out, remove the water pump and check the condition of the blades. A new pump is < $50 so stick a new one in

Then have it tuned properly, running lean or retarded will make it run hot

200* F is 93* C, it shouldn't be getting that hot, but it's not

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks Simon the only thing I didn't do when I had the rad out was the water pump, will try a new one and check the timing
Thanks
Glenn

I don't know if S blocks have it but there is a plug down near the clutch slave cylinder that faces the firewall. I have removed the plug before and cleaned that out and run water through the block through that port too. If you are going to all of the above trouble, why not try that as well.

+1 on checking timing and mixture.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

You say it hasn't boiled yet so is your temperature sender and gauge accurate? If you have access to spares you could try them so as to confirm it really is overheating.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I bought an infrared thermometer for $15 and checked it was calibrated on the kettle.

Even the cheap ones are quite good. I also have a cheap one (probably about the same price as you paid) and have compared it to an expensive one ($100 or so I think it was). My cheapie read within 0.2°C of the expensive one on the hot surface we tested it on >150°C from memory.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Well that's another problem I'm not sure if my temp gauge is accurate, it may be reading high in that case it might be running at normal temp I will have to check it and see, thanks for all the help everyone

I made certain about the gauge by removing the sender from the head but still connected and dip it in a kettle and bring to boil watching the gauge. Disconnect the coil so u don't damage it cause you'll need the ign on.

The smiths gauge are usually 75deg at N and 100deg at the beginning of the red mark.

Also at the same time drop your thermostat into the water and as it heats up to make sure it opens fully and at the right temperature.

The little infrared thermometers are also a handy little tool.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Does anyone know how much more effect the 6 blade metal fans are compared to 11 blade plastic (new ones)

The temp rises from 84 to 100c while sitting in traffic on a 28c day,
35c day the car ran at 99-100c with thermo fan on.

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Keep the plastic one imo, I have a warm 1100 and it never gets off normal no matter how hard I flog it or how long it sits there. keep the plastic fan get the cooling system right and running right and it won't over heat on a 40 deg day mine stays on normal and yes my gauge is accurate

Also check to make sure your fan isn't on backward.

Its on the correct way thermostat also pops open at 82c. New rad time i think.
The previous owner put a whole bottle of head gasket copper repair and i cant seem to flush it all out.

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http://www.flickr.com/by_dan
Current: 1970 Mini K 2014 Focus ST
Past: 93 Rover, 64 850, 97 Rover, 66 Deluxe, 66 Moke
81 Austin Estate, 2006 R53MCS, 66 Deluxe, 1978 Clubbie
2014 Land Rover Defender 90

Danny,
Get the rad cleaned out professionally. About $150.
For added peace of mind I'd add a Clubby heater core behind the grille.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Or you can buy an alloy radiator for about $120. They are very good, doesn't go above "N" even on a hot day including being stuck in a traffic jam for 1 hour (temp was in the 30's)

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..