Does anyone have a photo of the studs which the dry subframe uses to bolt to the engine bay cross member?
I seem to remember they are 9/16" one end and 1/2" the other with a taper on the shank.

I am more used to hydro frames and all my bolts are off being plated

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

i think more like 3/8"x5/16"either end

_________________
16v, twin cam, 'a'series, cooper S replica,3x dcoe webers,Around 200 HP and heaps of torque

Yes, and with a reduced shank rather than a tapered one.

Ah yes. sorry I stated AF instead of thread size...

Thanks very much. For the moment I will use a pair of gearbox studs to line it in place. They're 3/8 UNF to 3/8 UNC but will do to get the thing lined up until I get the bolts back.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I'm not all all sure how that will go for you. The holes in the bulkhead cross-member will be expecting a 5/16" stud, won't they?

Cheers

They accept the 3/8 studs and I think they would accept more!

A lot of leeway for chassis alignment I suspect. They wouldn't be built this way these days...

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Even with all that leeway, when I swapped to a GT subby in mine I had to chase one of the subby threads in situ. I have a 5/16 UNF tap with 200mm of square bar welded to it.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.