Guys,

I have changed the ring and the contacts in my wiper motor. Hooked it all back up and now it blows a fuse when I turn on ignition. Even with the wiper switch off.

This in turn kills the wipers, sprayer, indicators and fan. (Does that sound right?

I've checked the wiring of the new Contacts. Tried a different motor with the new ring and factory Contacts. And now I've run out of fuses.

Any ideas? I'm heading out to grab more fuses and then I'll check the switch

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I have a problem.. apparently

Make sure you do check the switch as well. There's small numbers on the switch if you look carefully. Match the wiring precisely to the numbers. The other end will probably be your culprit if you have mixed a wire up though. There is a wire which goes to ground through the switch in the cabin for motor braking, this will likely be the cause of the short.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks Mick. I've now checked all wiring as per this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=49056

The only way I can stop it blowing a fuse is but removing the earth from the motor body.

I'm now using a motor with old contacts. But a new slip ring. To rule out my soldering. Which was right anyway.

Any thoughts?

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I have a problem.. apparently

It seems the auto park is what's burning out the fuse. Old slip ring in now. All wires attached. 2 speeds work. No auto park though

35a fuse.

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I have a problem.. apparently

Its hard to pick up what is wrong over the net, but is there something physically different about the autopark? Insulation or a crushed wire?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Not anything that I can see. This might be a job for an auto sparky. I have basically run out of time to fix it before the blue slip. So fingers crossed.

What I basically came up with was a few scenarios.
a) old ring with a bit rusted o n the outermost part, basically opposite the tab that juts in. - everything but auto park works.
b) new ring. Motor will work if not earthed won't park
c) new ring. Fuse won't blow if green wire isn't connected.

Writing that down makes me thing maybe the green wire is damaged between motor and fuse box

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I have a problem.. apparently

What type of wiper motor do you have?
The English Lucas rectangular body type or the round body Australian Lucas type?
The wiring for the two types is completely different and the wiper switch for the OZ motor is different.
The English motor 12V supply goes via the switch to the motor.
The OZ motor has 12V at the motor at all times.
The OZ switch has 3 functions
It connects the low speed and high speed brush to earth to run the motor and when you put the switch in the OFF position it shorts the motor brushes together to give regenerative braking to the motor so that it stops almost instantly.

Hope this helps
RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

If it is the round Oz motor, the autopark stops the motor by shorting the armature to ground. This wiring is unlike the UK round motor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It's a round 2 speed motor. With the clubman switch.

I'm sort of out of ideas on what to test. The only thing I didn't do was fully hook it up including to the wiper arms. So I may try that.

As far as testing wires, I dont fully understand the circuit to know how to even test them.

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I have a problem.. apparently

No need to hook the wipers to it. Easy enough to bench test it off the car, as I did when sussing out how to wire it to an MGB switch.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Okay fair enough. I will study the diagrams and make a bench test rig

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I have a problem.. apparently

I had a similar problem when I fitted a new slip ring. The little legs that hold the slip ring in place went in too far and hit the metal on the opposite side, which then went to ground. I snipped the legs down a little, and the problem was solved.

Motor being overhauled properly and bench tested properly is very important. Wiring on the car being done correctly will solve your problem. Make sure you follow that diagram that suits your motor and switch type.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

This was the exact problem!

Looking at it closely. The original plates bend over the plastic, so maybe bending them over to replicate would have been better. But only realised it after i snipped em.

Oh well. Works now

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I have a problem.. apparently

Good to hear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.