Quick question
How do you know if these ball and cups are worn out
I am getting a slight clunking noise from possibly the rear end when turning right and accelerating a little bit
It sounds like a typical loose bush noise
otherwise it sounds and feels great
When the roadworthy was done and it was up on the hoist there was no slop or freeplay found or noticed front or back
I am asking here as my manual is very vague and basis and shows little

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

maybe not the rear and is a cv joint?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Ball and cup wear sound is when working the suspension over bumps you'll hear the clunk. Sounds like front cv to me

Great question

Could I ask also the service life of Ball and Cups?
Going to replace mine anyway, but would be interesting to hear opinions. They look pretty sturdy and without a huge range of ,movement can't see them wearing out quickly......

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

My car is 1970 and AFAIK the rear balls & cups are still original. I did change the fronts as I fitted a GT subby etc.
When new, they have little grease in. And the grease nipple on the top arm does NOT lube them.
I have a `grease needle', once every year or two I stick it into the boot and give it 1 pump only.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well i put the beast up on ramps at the rear and climbed under for a look
What i noticed is what seems to be 2 extra subframe mounting rubbers located at the front of the subframe
As in just in front of the fuel pump and same other side
they look like the flat bump stops i see for sale at various online dealers http://minisport.com.au/mini-hydrolasti ... und-rubber
Are these original or has someone fitted them

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

Anyone seen these subframe rubbers on other cars

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

Never on the outside of the subframe!
You are right they look like the trailing arm rebound rubbers but they should be on the inside of the subframe facing the rear of the car - they are there to stop the knuckle mount of the trailing arm hitting the subframe.

I was also getting an occasional clunking sound from directly behind the drivers seat. I looked and looked and eventually discovered the subframe mounting rubbers had disintegrated. If you have the car jacked up I used a small prybar and levered the subframe in various directions and it became pretty obvious they had failed.
Cheers
Rod

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1967 New British Racing Green Mk1 Cooper S, 1967 Lake Green 1275 MG Midget, 1969 Jet Red / Crystal White Mk2 Cooper S, 1972 Gambier Turquoise Clubman GT (ex police), 1972 Camino Gold Clubman GT, 2009 JCW Challenge Edition, Megane RS265, Clio RS220.

I had the rear end up on ramps then jacked the rear of the car up to lift the wheels off the ramps
I looked everywhere and like you said i used a prybar and worked the subframe near all the mounts
Not one bit of movement anywhere
Everything looks as it should for 45 years old
Suspension moved nicely
No slop in the trailing arm bearings
Did notice the battery cable sloppy in the grommet and this must be causing petrol fumes leaking into the car when i fill the tanks up as 1 of the breathers is right next to it

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

Now after inspecting the rear end I proceeded to put the front end up on ramps
I jacked the wheels off the ramps and what I found was
the front left wheel bearing is loose as
I wiggle the wheel and it clunks
I have noticed a bit of a growling noise from the front
What I think has happened is that the car has sat for so long with little use and the bearings might have had water in them and now I have been driving it the bearings have failed
There was no play when I first got the car and had it up on a car hoist
So time to fit new bearings all round I think

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

I'd insist on Timken tapered roller bearings; they cost a bit more than noname ones but IMO they fit better, because the included spacer is the right width. So, you get the right bearing preload when assembled (as long as the swivel hub isn't worn inside).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes I will use Timken as the no frills brands you don't know where they came from or what old Windmill Steel they were made from

Question is

How do you hold the CV Stub Axle to get 150 ft/lb of torque when tightening the nut
I would guess you use an old drive shaft set in the vice or similar?

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

I'm trying to beat Dr mini to this... . Fit it in the car and get a frend to stand on the brakes with the road wheel on the ground. Tension away.

But from what i have read the bearings are set on the bench, not on the car

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

On the bench I use an old brake drum with 2 holes drilled through the outside. Then slide a bar through the holes.