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 Post subject: How Much Pressure?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 6:11 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Maryborough Qld.
OK well my dad and I have been working (procrastinating) on the heinz for about a month now and we are replacing the clutch ....*yay* ........NOT!! This job was made even more difficult by not having a flywheel puller so we went down to superscabs like we do and got one ........ got home and I say to dad "this won't work it is too small" ..to which he replys "CRAP of course it will, give me a go!" so away he goes and it dont work so ...... now we go and make one ......all well and good but (and this is a big but) it doesn't want to come off the taper. Which brings me back to my question how much pressure should there be to take one of these suckers off?


HELP ME PLEASE!!!

Pat

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:19 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Sometimes it takes heaps..
My puller is 20mm thick plate, 1" UNF Grade 8 bolt in it, Grade 8 nut `stick welded' to plate. I've had it over 35 years now. :D
The puller plate has a 3/4" thick bar `handle' welded out the side so I can put 3' of pipe on it. :P
Ditto the 1-1/2" socket and bar, I put 3' of pipe on that. :P
Threads are oiled to prevent seizing.

And ,sometimes, it's taken all my strength to get them off with this monster. :lol:
OK so I'm not as strong as I was.. :oops:

My point is yeah, they can be bloody tight. Get thee a bigass puller..!

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Last edited by drmini in aust on Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:22 pm 
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Location: Tannum Sands, QLD
A shitload :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 8:29 pm 
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I DWIVE A BIG TWUCK
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and then some

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:21 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Cairns, Nrth QLD
Ive heard of some people using an oxy on the flywheel to heat it up, then get stuck into it with a puller.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:27 pm 
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1360cc
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dont start to wack it with a hammer or blunt object...you can put hairline cracks in it, or warp it, or just fook it up.

Also, with a puller.....just be carefull, because when she finally lets go, it can fly off and drop on the floor all in a flash. I did 2 recently and the secong 'popped' off and hit the deck...inches from my foot!

Lucky I wasn't wearing my 'GAFMO' safety boots!! :shock: :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:30 pm 
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Also, with a puller.....just be carefull, because when she finally lets go, it can fly off and drop on the floor all in a flash. I did 2 recently and the secong 'popped' off and hit the deck...inches from my foot!


This happened to me as well, Which contributed to having to get a new ring gear, which sucked.


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 Post subject: some where in the garage
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:23 pm 
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some where in the pile of stuff in the garage is my hydaulic mini flywheel puller, been going for about 35 years so far and has never met a mini flywheel that it couldn't shift, kept it after I sold the workshop 15 years ago just in case

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:41 pm 
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1360cc
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As the good Dr indicated - remember the lever principle - the longer the lever the less force required :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:02 pm 
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J_A_M wrote:
dont start to wack it with a hammer or blunt object...you can put hairline cracks in it, or warp it, or just fook it up.


I use a hammer to put it on and tighten it up. As you will tighten it to correct Tourque then hit it with hammer and it will go another 1/4 Turn I usually do this a number of time until it will not turn any more and I have not had any trouble with my Fly Wheel or any other one that we have done like that.

Some have been running for over 15 years straight.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 6:27 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
The fly wheel Puller...I have used Dr one 4 time now and she works a wonder...
Couple of hints.
Bag of rag's or a Dooner under the fly wheel so hopfully it will land on it :roll:
Stand to the side with the long bar on the puller so it does not hit you (also move anything valuble in firing rang)
If the Motor is out of the engine bay, Use a boat and trailor on top of it will keep it stead :wink: Ay Kev other wise lay it down on rag's with all the attachment off and some one standing on the box

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:18 pm 
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gafmo wrote:
If the Motor is out of the engine bay, Use a boat and trailor on top of it will keep it stead :wink: Ay Kev other wise lay it down on rag's with all the attachment off and some one standing on the box

??? wrong end of gearbox, Gaf... :lol:
I use the old boat & trailer trick to hold the box down while undoing the friggin diff pinion nut, which is about 150lb/ft.. sometimes heaps more! :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 7:46 pm 
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:lol: same exacution :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 9:53 pm
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Location: Maryborough Qld.
Ok it still isn't off but is anyone fimiliar with the plug thing that sits over the part of which that needs pulling ............ I suppose that not having it off doesn't help at all does it

here are some pics of the puller and the infamous "plug"

Image

Image

Image

ONE WORD FOR NEXT TIME

DUH!!!

Pat

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:22 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
:lol:
:idea: It's a good idea to sit something in the end of the crank to push on, so you don't damage its centre or the threads inside..
I use a 5/8" bolt cut 1/2" long, with the threads turned off. Or a 5/8" nut will do. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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