Ok another question for the experts, my clubmans fuel gauge is faulty not working at all or only slightly rising on a full tank,Can anyone break it down for me to trouble shoot?

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SPO41 Mk2 Cooper S very original
1993 R32 Nissan Skyline GTR

If you pull the sensor wire at the sender and earth it - you will then know if it is a problem with the sender or at the front. It should go from empty to full.

Next is the gauge. If it is smiths gauge it should be powered through a 10V voltage stabilizer. Check that you have 10V to the gauge.

Also check all your earths.

Cheers gto, I will probably be troubleshooting on the weekend, during the week I'm hoping to change the front rubber cones for the first time. Looking forward to swapping them over hope it takes a bit of harshness out of the ride.

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SPO41 Mk2 Cooper S very original
1993 R32 Nissan Skyline GTR

From memory,
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If that seems ok depending on which is easier, you can pull out the sender out and see if the resistance between the terminal and sender body changes with the angle of the floater arm. Or you can pull your binnacle out and test the stabiliser on the back.

Though, both the fuel and temp gauges run off the same outputs on the stabiliser, so if it's that which is broken then both should be acting up.

Sometimes the plastic float on the sender fills up with fuel and holds it down making it read empty

+1 - exactly what has happened to me in the past. I grounded the sender wiring and when that went to full with no problems, I replaced the fuel float and it has been fine ever since.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

You can also get dead spots or a broken wire on the windings.
The float arm is supposed to rub on the windings as it raises and lowers. This gives you the variable resistance.

There is no 12+ supply going to Tank sender like someone is saying. Unless you are a suicide Bomber. Suggesting that leads some people to disasters. Please refrain from saying things when you are not certain. I had to say it !

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Tony - Don't feel guilty correcting other people's comments and suggestions when you know they are wrong. As the resident Ausmini automotive electrician you have helped many members with sparky issues. In this case sparks and fuel vapours are a dangerous combination so your intervention is worthwhile. Keep it up.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

For those who may not know what you *are* saying, it might be helpful for you to explicitly say what does go to the tank sender.

Ok so my fuel guage reads full all the time the car is on goes back to empty when turned off , diagnosis please , it is a van tank , thanks.

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

Seeing as others are asking other questions I'll add mine. Gauge is accurate when stationary, as soon as I start moving it slowly starts to drop, any ideas?

You may have a short to earth in the wire going to the sender or the sender is shorted to earth.

Not sure what car you have but here are a few things I have seen in the past.

It may be something to do with the 10v supply from the voltage stabilizer. Check that it is getting 13V in and 10V out.

Sometimes vibrations from the road or air flowing into the back of the cluster can also make the voltage stabilizer play up.

Could also be linked to the temp sender or gauge. As the temperature goes up it could effect the load on the stabilizer. I can't remember which way it goes but when I first got my car when it got hotter it either read more or less fuel.

Also check the charging system is steady and not overcharging when revs increase. The old generator system can charge 12V at idle and then 14V at revs. If the stabilizer is had it then this may effect the 10V output.

Try changing to an electronic voltage stabiliser? Then, hopefully, no problems in the future.