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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 8:28 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon May 23, 2016 8:57 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Newcastle, NSW/Brisbane
Hi all,

We (my parents and I) are currently doing a lot of work on their 1963 Morris Cooper, and have hit a bit of a possible problem area. The car hasn't run in a number of years (over 20!!), so one of the main jobs we are doing is taking the thing apart, checking the condition of things and seeing if it's ok, needs repairing, or needs replacement.
One issue we have come across is that the arm from the clutch slave cylinder to the plunger isn't moving- the arm seems to be free though, so possibly the clutch itself or the plunger is the issue? Just wondering if anybody has come across this, and if there's an easy way to diagnose and fix it, or if we are going to be needing to pull the engine out for this?

Also, if it's the clutch itself, is a rebuild or replacement best? The cost isn't an issue, more what is the best option for the car and also best from a time perspective. The clutch seems to be leaking as well anyway, so this may be a deciding factor.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:51 am 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Welcome to Ausmini! Depends on what the problem is.

I would take off the slave cylinder and dismantle it and put in a kit. The arm might be rusted or ceased but most likely can be cleaned up. Here is a new item:

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -cylinder/

While it's out you'll want to do put in a repair kit on the slave cylinder:

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -cylinder/

If all else fails here is a brand new slave cylinder (Note you'll still need to buy the pushrod as I don't think they come with one)

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -cylinder/

While you're at it, the hose to the slave cylinder might also be toast

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... -cylinder/

You'll also want a new washer between the hose and the connection at the firewall

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... utch-hose/

Obviously you'll want to drain the whole system and get rid of 20yr old fluid and bleed the whole system again after refitting. Some other bits and pieces worth checking while you're down there is the state of the master cylinder, the clevis pin connecting the pedal to the master cylinder, the clutch arm itself (and the condition of the ball on the end of it) and the clevis pins that hold the clutch arm in (two of them 1 at the top holding in the above salve pushrod, bigger one at the bottom holding the arm onto the clutch housing). Also need new split pins for said clevis pins. All those clevis pins cost nearly nothing to replace but make a HUGE difference to clutch travel and activation.

PS. suggest you put your location into your profile, that way if there are members near you could lend you a hand. If you're near me I'm more than happy to help!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:13 am 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 4:36 pm
Posts: 8606
Location: Brisbane
yeah, where are you so we can send you to the right place/person to inspect & diagnose correctly first

pointless (in my opinion) to just rip stuff apart scratching heads trying find stuff wrong,,, have it diagnosed correctly first, then rip the right things apart to fix the right things :-)
easy-peasy :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 2:06 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:18 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Hi All,
As a quick introduction I'm one of the parents mentioned in the original post (I've left a longer one elsewhere) (I've now been encouraged to join the forum myself), as to an update on this problem, I've removed the master and slave cylinders (they were both leaking) and all hoses/pipes, originally I still could't get the clutch arm to move, but with some lubrication and gentle encouragement I freed up the plunger and it's now moving ok (it hadn't been operated in 20 to 30 years as far as we know). I can see movement in the clutch housing through the timing hole so that seems good. Just wondering what is the general consensus on rebuilding v. replacing the cylinders? They are both original but look really ratty after so many years of neglect. We and the car are located in Newcastle NSW if there is anyone that can be recommended to delve further into the mechanics of the little beast, my Mechanical knowledge/ability whilst not completely non-existent is limited.
Thanks
Jon


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:12 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:59 pm
Posts: 985
Location: Holt ACT
morris696 wrote:
Hi All,
As a quick introduction I'm one of the parents mentioned in the original post (I've left a longer one elsewhere) (I've now been encouraged to join the forum myself), as to an update on this problem, I've removed the master and slave cylinders (they were both leaking) and all hoses/pipes, originally I still could't get the clutch arm to move, but with some lubrication and gentle encouragement I freed up the plunger and it's now moving ok (it hadn't been operated in 20 to 30 years as far as we know). I can see movement in the clutch housing through the timing hole so that seems good. Just wondering what is the general consensus on rebuilding v. replacing the cylinders? They are both original but look really ratty after so many years of neglect. We and the car are located in Newcastle NSW if there is anyone that can be recommended to delve further into the mechanics of the little beast, my Mechanical knowledge/ability whilst not completely non-existent is limited.
Thanks
Jon


You'd be pretty lucky to be able to "just put a kit in" the cylinders after all those years as both the master cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder will undoubtedly be scored and pitted from corrosion. The cost of getting sleeves installed will be greater than some keenly priced similar looking replacements from one or the other of the principal parts suppliers. There are cheaper plastic tank versions that have appeared in more recent times. Be very careful of the after-market slave cylinders as it seems some don't have the seal spreader which necessary to hold the seal properly in place in the bore. There's much written about that here by dr mini in aust.
You doubtless have a similar decision in respect of the brake slave (wheel) cylinders.


Last edited by DavidE on Tue Jul 12, 2016 1:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 4:22 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Yeah given the look of those tins I'd be thinking about an entire brake overhaul, rear slave cylinders, pistons and seals for front calipers, pad condition, caliper hoses, the lot. Because we are talking about brakes here, I wouldn't leave any part of it to chance...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:52 pm 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1195
It is interesting to see the two "dots" on the brake cylinder. These usually indicate that the cylinder has been sleeved; probably either in brass or stainless.

They will need a good checkover, and new kits.. but the sleeves may make them a better bet than "new" cylinders...

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 12:52 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:18 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Hi and thanks for all the excellent advice, its very much appreciated. I'm guessing the only way to be sure the brake master is sleeved is to take it apart and have a good look, as to the brake overhaul would this involve replacing the rigid lines as well or can they be flushed and cleaned in some way? I'm sure I'll be replacing all the clutch hydraulic components but now need to decide what to replace on the brake side.
Thanks
Jon


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 1:17 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
Posts: 6858
Location: Special Tuning Sydney
It depends on how corroded they are, I would check them all. The pipes can all be replaced, John has stock of nearly everything to do with brakes.

http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... er-hose-2/

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K


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