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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 3:16 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
I hooked up the battery for the first time today after replacing the loom in the 850 and one of the red wires attached to terminal number 1 of the headlight switch smoked up and melted the insulation after the lights were turned on.
This is the red wire that travels from the number 1 position on the headlight switch to the LHS tail light and then to earth via the fuel tank hold down bolt.
I do have brand new sealed beam headlights fitted but not halogens.
I have checked the earth connection in the boot and the one on the bulkhead for the headlights and the connections seem OK.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to check next as I don't want to fry the new cable I've had to install?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:55 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Victoria
I did my rewiring recently and made sure everything was working before installing the hood lining and other trim work. This melted wiring can travel a fair way and once it sticks to other wires it can be a bugger. You need to expose the hood lining on that side to establish how far the melted wire has gone.
Wish you luck.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 6:33 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Bunbury WA
You may have a short in one of your tail lights or parking lights , the wiring for these doesn't have a fuse and when they short out (usually due to water getting in) the red wire will get very hot ,this is quite a common fault ,a lot of old wiring harnesses will have damage because of this .Simple solution is to install an inline fuse where it comes off the light switch ,before connecting up the battery,saves your wiring harness and light switch ,sometimes the car can catch fire too. If this fuse keeps blowing ,check for short circuit :)

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:53 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Belair, Adelaide
I'd firstly check with the battery disconnected using an ohmmeter whether that wire is indeed shorted to ground, because it sounds like it is.

As you suggest don't connect the battery again until you fix the problem.

If so go to the back of the car and disconnect the red wire from the bullet connector and check whether it is the feed in from the switch that is shorted or whether it is the lights. If it is the lights then unplug each of them in turn and check them to ground.. a process of elimination.

The red wire does the rear tail lights and the number plate light so can be any of these...

Jon


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 8:20 pm 
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848cc
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I have seen the red wire that goes to both tail lamps and the numberplate lamp also, wired direct to earth in the numberplate lamp, instead of the power pin of the globe, it also took out the wiring in the roof and under dash, so check carefully what other wires have been joined into the burnt one .. Good luck cheers Lindsay

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 9:26 pm 
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Found the cause-I was rushing and not thinking so had wired the parking lights incorrectly which shorted that circuit.

I've replaced the burnt wiring which was a crap of a job but all is now OK.

Thanks for all the comments and advice-another lesson learned the hard way!!

Cheers

Dave

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:19 am 
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Might be an idea to put an inline fuse at the switch where the red wire starts to prevent the same thing happening. It is so much easier changing a fuse and rectifying the problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:59 am 
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Thanks Tony-yes, I'll be buying a couple of inline fuses today for the head light and tail light circuits!!

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:01 am 
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I was going to install 10A fuses-does anyone recommend higher (or lower) rated ones?

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Your imagination is only limited by the size of your wallet
"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 9:40 am 
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10A fuses are a bit small I'd fit 20A or bigger.
Might be an even better idea to run a headlamp relay. It keeps all that load off the switch gear.
I like the New Era one, it comes with two 30A blade fuses.
There are cheaper brands, but the rally guys all used to use this `Made in Japan' one. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:29 am 
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848cc
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Location: Belair, Adelaide
Yes, parking lights you could get away with 10A.

Headlights and high beam you are looking at 120W total so would need 15-20A fuse.

I had always been worried about the lack of a fuse for the lighting in minis.

Jon


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 2:35 pm 
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1 headlamp fuse would mean no headlights if it blows. 2 would be OK, 1 each for low and high beam.

Many cars like my 1969 Fiat have 4, 1 each for low beam, high beam, left and right.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 6:48 pm 
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Thanks for the tips gentlemen.
I have relays in my van and they work a treat.
Doc-the ERA headlamp relay kit may be the way to go (and only $36 on Ebay).
It would also be easy to hide as I want the wiring to look original.
Cheers
Dave

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"61 850 original and crusty (Mavis)
"64 Smooth Roof Van (Colin)
"67 Deluxe resto project (Monty)


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