ausmini :: View topic - Ever had a clutch problem? Tell me about it....

Steve,,, If the slave cyl isn`t leaking fluid, leave it alone.

The play you`re mentioning, "should" be there!!!,,, that is std issue so don`t bother stuffing around with that lot either... the push rod you point at is just the push rod,,,you can`t tell how much play there is in the slave cyl piston because it is right inside the cyl,,,well,,,unless you have X-Ray vision mate.

most commonly the clutch arm is worn on the bottom of it,,, they wear (or even crack/break) on the ball on the end of the arm where it pivots inside the carrier & quite often the carrier wears in that spot too,,,the arm you have is a very early model "weak" sh!t one also, ,,best thing to do is to replace that arm with the new type "thick" one & check inside the carrier for a big divot on the pivot point also , replace it if need be,,,& another thing that will also help, is to rip the clutch cover off, take the carrier out, remove the throw out brg & fit a flat washer in behind it (unless Coatesy has allready done that, which i doubt) & then replace everything & fit it all back up,,,adjust it all properly again & you should have a wonderfull amount of clutch travel,,,

I would also check the amount of play in the pedal to master cyl push rod pivot clevis pin area,,,a little play here, creates a huge amount of travel loss at the other end of the system,,,as do the other clevis pins on the clutch arm.

if there is still more problems after all that, then more homework is needed in the hydraulic dept,,,maybe the master cyl is a small one (.7 brake master cyl; is to small to be used as a clutch which should be a .75 one)

&,,,what ever you do,,,Please fit the clutch "over throw nuts" to the end of the carrier & adjust them correctly,,,if you don`t, then you only have yourself to blame if you end up busting off your center main cap on the block,, you won`t want that to happen will you now???? they are there for a reason so fit them or maybe pay the very ugly consequences

so many people, including some so called mini mechanics/specialists, don`t fit them & even will tell you that they`re not even needed,,,well,,,,hee hee, those people that don`t fit them have absolutely no idea what they`re doing,,,never ever trust anyone who tells you different,,,,they are needed to help save major catastrophe.

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:17 pm ]
Post subject:	Ever had a clutch problem? Tell me about it....
The clutch in JAM is a bit 'iffy'.... Upshifts are fine, downshifts crunch 50% of the time. When it crunches...IT CRUNCHES!!! Like there is no clutch AT ALL!!! It is bled correctly, and the master and slave cylinders are new. The hose is new, and the clutch plate is near new. It's shitting me......as it's the ONLY thing left to sort out (everyting else is hunky dory). Anyone had clutch issues before? What was it and how did you fix it?

Author:	sg [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:20 pm ]
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Yep................ Anton all the above is Slidey all over...... Nearly owned him 9 months now and still not sorted...... I don't have any idea how to fix it. Am getting a new adjustment arm kit and thrust bearing tomorrow and a new borg and beck clutch....... after that who knows

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:25 pm ]
Post subject:
sg...I feel your pain mate.....

Author:	drmini in aust [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Crap non-genuine baulk rings I reckon- Barney is the same. I found the baulk ring tapers don't match the gears real well, and sometimes they are oval. Like in yours, I only replaced his 2nd gear one as all the others were like new. Good news- Barney's 3-2 downshift is improving with use.

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:34 pm ]
Post subject:
ok....if I am driving along and I want to shift down to 2nd....and it won't go (crunches) I will stop and go for 1st. It will crunch INTO 1st in this scenario too! Just like the clutch is not quite doing it's thing. That's more than baulk rings.....

ausmini https://www.ausmini.com/forums/

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Author:	sg [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 8:56 pm ]
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Do you have a new adjustment arm on JAM Anton?????? I keep getting told to change to the newer? style adjustment arm..... it was also mentioned in one of my many other clutch threads that a ford slave cylinder fits which enables more arm travel....... I am a complete noob about this but just relaying the info i have gained

Author:	sg [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:
Anton.. here is a quote Matt Read gave me regarding Clutch Ajustment and other teething problems: Quote: Steve,,, If the slave cyl isn`t leaking fluid, leave it alone. The play you`re mentioning, "should" be there!!!,,, that is std issue so don`t bother stuffing around with that lot either... the push rod you point at is just the push rod,,,you can`t tell how much play there is in the slave cyl piston because it is right inside the cyl,,,well,,,unless you have X-Ray vision mate. most commonly the clutch arm is worn on the bottom of it,,, they wear (or even crack/break) on the ball on the end of the arm where it pivots inside the carrier & quite often the carrier wears in that spot too,,,the arm you have is a very early model "weak" sh!t one also, ,,best thing to do is to replace that arm with the new type "thick" one & check inside the carrier for a big divot on the pivot point also , replace it if need be,,,& another thing that will also help, is to rip the clutch cover off, take the carrier out, remove the throw out brg & fit a flat washer in behind it (unless Coatesy has allready done that, which i doubt) & then replace everything & fit it all back up,,,adjust it all properly again & you should have a wonderfull amount of clutch travel,,, I would also check the amount of play in the pedal to master cyl push rod pivot clevis pin area,,,a little play here, creates a huge amount of travel loss at the other end of the system,,,as do the other clevis pins on the clutch arm. if there is still more problems after all that, then more homework is needed in the hydraulic dept,,,maybe the master cyl is a small one (.7 brake master cyl; is to small to be used as a clutch which should be a .75 one) &,,,what ever you do,,,Please fit the clutch "over throw nuts" to the end of the carrier & adjust them correctly,,,if you don`t, then you only have yourself to blame if you end up busting off your center main cap on the block,, you won`t want that to happen will you now???? they are there for a reason so fit them or maybe pay the very ugly consequences so many people, including some so called mini mechanics/specialists, don`t fit them & even will tell you that they`re not even needed,,,well,,,,hee hee, those people that don`t fit them have absolutely no idea what they`re doing,,,never ever trust anyone who tells you different,,,,they are needed to help save major catastrophe. Hope this may help

Author:	Lillee [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:05 pm ]
Post subject:
Try heal toeing to down shift (match revs). Does it still do the same?

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:06 pm ]
Post subject:
cheers for that Steve...interesting reading. I have just returned from the garage....I ripped all the underlay out from under the clutch pedal area......it might help Will test on Sunday.

Author:	Circus_Maximus [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Anton, I'm with matt. Fitted everything new, pins rods even welded sleeves on the pedal holes (that holds the rod that pushes the master cylinder - sung to the tune of ankle bone connected to shin bone ) got rid of ALL slack, still crunched. The slave did not have enough travel, pedal down to the floor. Got a copper washer from the sump plug, gave it a very slight file on the inside, fitted perfectly under the thrust bearing made the world of difference. I REFUSE to bend the clutch throw lever to achieve the same effect. If you do you run the risk of fracturing the little spherical end that fits inside the thrust bearing carrier. Ive had that go on me in traffic, instant no clutch, was done by a professional too!

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:44 pm ]
Post subject:
hmmm.....might try that one next if the underlay removal doesn't work. I have a spare sump plug with washer too

Author:	drmini in aust [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 10:47 pm ]
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Does it go into reverse OK at rest? Or does it crunch... If reverse is OK the fault is in the box, IMO.

Author:	J_A_M [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:06 pm ]
Post subject:
drmini in aust wrote: Does it go into reverse OK at rest? . yes. drmini in aust wrote: If reverse is OK the fault is in the box, IMO. gawd I hope not!

Author:	gafmo [ Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:
What is it about a clutch and new engine's I hear you Anton and Steve....I still have the nuts extended al the way out and have not touched them since

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Author:	drmini in aust [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 7:49 am ]
Post subject:
J_A_M wrote: drmini in aust wrote: Does it go into reverse OK at rest? . yes. drmini in aust wrote: If reverse is OK the fault is in the box, IMO. gawd I hope not! What I mean is, if not the clutch, the problem is `baulk ring/synchro hub/gear dog related'. My bet is on the synchro ring, as the old one was worn out and the gear dogs looked OK. 2nd gear synchro cops more abuse than any other.... I'd drive it a while, see if it improves as Barney's did. Try other oils too. What did you put in it?