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| Disc Brakes https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9402 |
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| Author: | Micky B [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Disc Brakes |
G'day My '65 deluxe has been converted to a disc front end however one of the discs isnt on the car. My problem is with putting it back on. I've tried to put it on by using a hammer, with a piece of wood to prevent damage, and this does work but due to how tight a fit it is I didnt put it on very far. Im worried how tight a fit its supposed to be and how to get it off again if need be. Any info or opinions on any of these querries would be greatly appreciated. Cheers |
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| Author: | simon k [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
can you post a pic? S disks (IE just the rotor with drive flange attached) should fit neatly over the spline on the CV joint, and press up against the inner race of the outer wheel bearing. The big nut then holds it all together |
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| Author: | Micky B [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Heres a few pics 
I believe there cooper 7 inch brakes and the drive shaft is also not on the subframe although it is in the pics. I understand how it goes together just dont know how tight a fit it should be as i dont want to force it on if it supposed to slide in easily. |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Backing Plate |
Micky B wrote: Heres a few pics
Looks like you have broken the backing plate/stone guard mate....do you have a Technical Manual 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
With 7" Cooper discs, the 2 bearings should be a slide fit on the drive flange. I suspect you are having trouble with that spacer between the bearings- if it drops, the drive flange will not go in.  if driveshaft & CV is out, put your finger or a screwdriver in from the back of swivel hub to line spacer up. When the drive flange is fully in, then fit the driveshaft assy. 
If the driveshaft is on the car, I stick a bit of heavy grease in there to help hold the spacer in place. |
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| Author: | Micky B [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I dont think the stone gaurds broken it just isnt bolted on at the moment. As for the manual ive only got one on a CD and it isnt that good. Im goin to get one off ebay soon hopefully. thanks for pointing out the stone guard as i just went and looked and it made me realise that the one on the other side isnt on either but the disc brake is. So now i definately need to know how to remove the discs as well as putting them on. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
IMO stone guards are a waste of time. They just make your discs run hotter, and hold stones against the disc. Fling 'em, I say... 
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| Author: | simon k [ Sun Jul 24, 2005 2:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
the stone guards come apart also, so you don't need the rotor off to get them on - if you put them on that is... |
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| Author: | Micky B [ Tue Jul 26, 2005 1:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cheers for the help guys. I pulled the drive hub out of the disc and cleaned it up a bit then reassembled and it went in a treat with only minor encouragement from a hammer and block of wood. The stone guards have been given the flick as the other side actually was broken. Now for the next question, how hard is it to recondition the brake calipers yourself or is it best to leave it to the experts? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Easy peasy, once you get the pistons out. I clamp the inner piston in, then use compressed air to blow the outer one out. The inner piston can be tapped out with a pin punch thru the hose connection hole. I then always split the calipers as it makes the assembly job easier. But if you do this, you MUST replace the little seal ring between the 2 halves. Beware- this is a separate part, not in the repair kit.
Seals are easy to fit- lube it all with brake fluid- but the dust shields are fragile. As the book says leave the piston 5/16" (8mm) out of the bore, fit dust seal and metal ring over it and press it in gently, or you will bugger it up. 
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| Author: | kazjim [ Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Agree with Kev, Except.... I use Bendix Rubber grease for re-assembly, a loose Cooper "S Wheels stud threaded into the brake hose hole (same thread and you can slowly push out the piston. . ) to push out the second piston and I hold the first piston with a clamp and press the pedal to "pop" the outside with the fulid.... (ok, so its all bass-ackward, but you get it...) J |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used to use Dow Corning silicone grease for assembly, but my supply `dried up' when I retired.. Used the rubber grease before that, but found it goes gluggy after a while. BTW, wire brush the outside of the pistons when they are out. Any rust spots coming thru the hardchrome, get new ones. S/S pistons are 50% dearer than new chrome ones are- so I bought the latter. So, they might only last 30 years.. I probably won't! 
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| Author: | simon k [ Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
what's that Kev - you bought new ones? you can work a lathe, make some pistons out of S/S, a mate made some for me for a bottle of cheap scotch! |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Jul 28, 2005 6:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hardchrome is a better wearing surface than SS, for the seals...
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| Author: | Micky B [ Thu Jul 28, 2005 9:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
that all sounds easy enuf so wheres the best place in the sydney/wollongong area to buy a rebuild kit for the 7" brake calipers? |
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