We seem to have made a mistake recently when fitting the front sub frame onto the body, we didn't put the 5mm spacers between the sub frame and the body.

It is a 1970 Van and has dry suspension and the sub frame is correct for the car.

Before we get too far ahead of ourselves what are the possible issues this can cause??

I reckon a fair bit of damage is possible - imagine hitting a hard bump, the top of the subframe isn't secure & square against the crossmember, so the shock will pass to the rear and front subframe mounts. The front mount is the most likely to cause damage - you might even crease mudguards

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Are you talking about the spacer at the top of the tower (#17 below) or at the leading edge of the sub-frame (#6 below)?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

It is number 17 on the front sub frame.

Isn't it to stop spigots punching up into body? Can't you just loosen the frame bolt and fit them after removing studs?"

I'm a bit bemused by this as my mini did not have any spacers fitted, anywhere....

OK let me rephrase this. My mini had a wet subframe.

I am changing over to dry, does this mean I need to install these spacers if I'm using a dry subframe?

Wet subframe has no spacers, dry one does. Not sure if there is a height difference between the two.
Also, wet ones I've seen all have bolts in top, I think many/most dry ones have studs and nuts.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK Dr mini. If that's the case do you recommend I use studs instead? I can not think of a reason why there is this difference.

I like bolts, because if dropping the rear of the subframe to get the rack out you don't bend the studs.
As for why they had 2 systems I don't know.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if I remember correctly, the threads in the subframe are different sizes - dry subframes have 3/8 threads, hydro have 5/16". The studs for dry are stepped to a 5/16" nut at the top

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Above is true.
Studs are easier to align. The captive nuts in a wet subframe can float. I had to use an extended tap once to get the 4th bolt to start.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You can use the studs in a wet subframe by turning them up side down

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" A Hundred Years From Now It will not Matter what my Bank Acount Was,
The Sort Of House I Lived in, Or The Kind Of Car I drove ... But The World May Be A Better Place
Because I was Once Important In The Life Of A Child"

I have studs so imagine it's more work as I will need to lower the subframe quite a bit before being able to access the space to pop the spacers back in.

So is the general consensus do it now and avoid any future issues?

Don't know about other people but I think you should add the spacer..
I wonder if it would be worthwhile trying to unscrew the stud, however remote that chance is..

Could you slot the spacer holes so you can slide it in sideways once there's enough room?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43