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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 10:47 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Penrith, NSW
Is it critically important and is 56nm the torque of the bolt.........

Cause either my torque wrench is fugged, or the torques different cause theres no click happening at 56nm :lol: The bolt is as TIGHT as it can go

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 10:54 pm 
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Then that's OK..! :wink:
I just do 'em up firm with a ring spanner.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:02 pm 
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998cc
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:lol: thats good to hear..........

As long as it doesnt shear on me, and it seals up ok its all good 8)

now i can return the torque wrench i bought today and buy a better one then :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:05 pm 
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If you bought the cheapo Supertools one, be aware the Kincrome (looks the same) is a better wrench but costs more $$. Inside head is better made. So said the sales rep... 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:23 pm 
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998cc
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No i bought a Toolex one from Gasweld........

Not to good though......i might buy a Repco one. Made by Stanley(who make Sidchrome) so apparently they're not to bad at all. More $$ though :(

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 12:56 pm 
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998cc
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Using torque wrenches for damn near every screw and bolt we do up, I've found that the Warren & Brown ones are the best over the long run.

We have Snap-on break-action torque wrenches and are forever getting them recalibrated, coz people forget to wind the torque back off when it's not being used, screwing the spring inside.

Just for your info, torque wrenches should not be trusted in the upper or lower 20%. Could be part of your problem there.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:05 pm 
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998cc
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aren't those warren & brown torque wrenches REALLY expensive?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 1:19 pm 
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998cc
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ummm, yeah they do cost a few pennies. I wouldnt expect Snap-on to be any bloody cheaper though LOL.

Its a car, so a calibrated wrist is about good for everything.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 11:23 pm 
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998cc
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PhildoD wrote:
Using torque wrenches for damn near every screw and bolt we do up, I've found that the Warren & Brown ones are the best over the long run.

We have Snap-on break-action torque wrenches and are forever getting them recalibrated, coz people forget to wind the torque back off when it's not being used, screwing the spring inside.

Just for your info, torque wrenches should not be trusted in the upper or lower 20%. Could be part of your problem there.


Hmm the Warren and Brown ones dont work like a conventional wrench though do they.........

Gasweld sell them too( and i can get through work), so maybe i can get one rather cheaply:D

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2004 6:59 am 
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Original Warren & Brown are good- I've got a baby one for auto tranny work etc.
But they also now sell similar ones to the Supertools/Kinchrome/etc with the spring inside- I bought one for work last year as I needed a LH one (really). Nice, calibration cert etc, but not worth $400 odd, I reckon... :x
Looked just like my $69 Kinchrome.. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2004 4:11 pm 
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998cc
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pffft, I dont pay for my tools. If it breaks they just buy another one :-)

And yes, we have to do L/H torques as well. That's why ya can turn the Square drive to the other side of the torque wrench :-)

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