How difficult should it be to remove the studs from a mini gearbox casing?
They have not sheared - just want to reduce the dimensions of the casing for shipping purposes.
I remember trying to remove some a long time ago and not having any luck.

This is the foolproof way, Bill.

Thank you, David.
I have a Litchfield version of exactly that.
It is a bit rough on the threads of short, fully threaded studs.
Do you know whether the studs give in easily from any experience?

I have this type, more contact area so less chance of damaging threads... but for the little ones (like heater outlet) I still lock 2 nuts together

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

From my experience, yes, but if you are experiencing stubborn ones, give the stud a squirt of a penetrating spray and let it work in.

I have a 'Chuck Stud Remover'. Google it. Works really well on head studs etc.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Easiest way is to use 2 nuts on the stud.
Tighten them against each other and try and get the flats to align.
Use a ring spanner on both nuts to unscrew the stud.
If you can't align the flats then use an open ender on the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.
Some WD40 will help if there is any corrosion between the steel stud and the aluminium alloy case.
The knurled wheel type of stud extractor will probably mark the stud and probably should only be used on studs that are going to be thrown away.
Its not a good idea to use them on high stressed studs as the knurl marks can cause stress points and the stud may fail at a most inappropriate time.

RonR

RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

I agree with Miniron,

I'd be astounded if you can't remove the studs using the 2 nut method. They wouldn't have been torqued in much in the first place being steel into Alloy....

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

If they don't want to move, warm the case up locally with a hot air gun or gas torch. I have had a few that were very tight...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If WD40 doesn't do the job, I read once that a 50/50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone is the best penetrating fluid.

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

There is also a Wurth product that has a freeze component in with the penetrating agent that cools the stud and shrinks it slightly and as it warms up the penetrating agent is sucked into the thread.
Unfortunately I can't remember the name.
KRAFT disease strikes again!

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

I have found a lubricant product called TMT from a company called Seal-Lock useful to free studs.

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Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

Thanks everyone.
I always worried about the knurled cam-lock tool on a high stress stud like head studs, but the diff casing is low tensile and nicks shouldn't be a problem.

Rost-Off Ice

That's it.

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required