well my brakes do not seem to be up to scratch. they need a couple of pumps to really engage. I always thought that cooper discs would happily put me through the front windscreen. i have checked and i dont think there is air in the lines so what could the problem be? or are they usually like this?

also is it possible for a temperature gauge to give false readings? my gauge read 140 degrees the other day after only about 10 mins of driving it also goes up fairly quickly when still and i rev it a bit . I tested the thermostat and it works and the radiator is brand new so i was just wondering if a gauge (also new) could be wrong?

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

Definately air in the system. Mine constantly did that for ages until i finally bleed them all properly and adjusted the back brakes properly. Now it stops without pumping, which I also thought was a drum brake feature

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I also agree its air in the system..(bleed the rears) or it could be one of the rear cyclinders are gone...whats the hand brake like....or the rear needs adjusting.

One other thing that it could be...is the rear druns could be thin

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Have you got a booster on the brakes because with out the booster you need more pedal don't you? But it does sound like air in the system

Pat

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Team MADMAN/Pat Rogers

ok. i didnt bleed the whole system so their may be air lurking in there somewhere. the rear has 'new' (read machined) spacered drums with new shoes so air must be the problem.

thanks guys

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

If bleeding them doesn't fix it check you rear slave cylinders for slight leaks. One of mine just crap itself which left a small pool of brake fluid under my wheel.

The tip I got for bleeding rear brakes with the proportioning valve in the rear subframe was as follows:

Fit a rubber hose from the rear passenger bleed nipple, into a jar of fluid. Get someone to sit in the car and pump the brake pedal. Then ask them to hold the pedal down. Crack the rear bleed nipple, and ask teh person in the car to slowly lift their foot off the pedal. The pressure in the system will drop, allowing fluid to pass to the rear wheel. The pedal will then move towards the floor and fluid / air will pass out the hose and into your jar. Nip up the bleed nipple and repeat. The do teh same on the rear drivers side.

I feel my brakes still have air in them, as I have to press the pedal very firmly to stop. I am yet to try this method, but will this weekend.

I said it before and I'll say it again. It's definately air. If it was a blown cylinder then you wouldn't be able to engage the brakes at all. THe fact that after a few pumps it's good means it's air for sure. That or your master cylinder is not sealing properly which I doubt.

I noticed that even a very minute amount of air will do this... bleed the whole system from the back and front and it will be sweet.

Gaf, you told Betty that her master cylinder was crapped, I bleed all 4 wheels and adjusted all 6 screws (2 back, 4 front) and it stops 10 times better Shame on you! j/k

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

My tips for brakes.

1) Rebuild the calipers.
2) Rebuild the wheel cylinders.
3) Rebuild the mastercylinder.
4) Replace all the rubber brake hoses.
5) Make sure that everything is just like new.

If you have bad brakes and you have not done all of the above you are wasting your time.

Cool chong....but all I did was have a quick look and told her to get the checked by a mech....On that Day I was not getting my hands dirsty as I was going over my perants place.....Checking her hand brake was nice and firm So I did not beleive the rears needed adjusting.....
Once I saw the amount of Brake fluid under Betties master cylinder..and also running down the Brake pedal what was one to think

Regarding to the rear cyclinders..Okay I have just had to replace Morris (Sue's ((Copper S front)) as the drivers side rear went...big time.
Now Sue did say it was feeling soft and I notice we had a little oil. What does happen is if the cylinder is going it Can let air into the system

Additonal how many clinks does you'r handbrake have, you may just need to adjust the rear brakes or did you convert the rear cylinders to 5/8 when the Cooper S front end went on

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I'm just about to replace all the brake bit's in NAV as I need to pump the pedal to get brakes, and yes they are adjusted all the way there's just no more to go. I've got 3 leaking wheel cylinders which makes for interesting braking
I'm getting
6x Wheel cylinders, 4 for the front and 2 for the rear.
4x Brake Shoes.
2x New normal drums (for front).
2x Spacered drums + longer studs (for rear).
New rubber brake lines for front and rear.
Oh and while I have it all pulled to bits i'll whack in some new bearings.
Then i'll be able to throw the car at some corners knowing i'll be able to stop at least once.

Then all thats left is flairs and alloy wheels

Nav I would also check the Adjuster and Wedge's and get some Copper grease on these parts as they tend to stick

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Been there done that. The adjusters are at their max, All my shoes are almost paper thin and the drums are rather worn. all this = not much brake performance. Not too long till its all replaced with new goodness. well except i can't afford/justify disks on NAV

Thats what I mean..get some new ones mate

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Kinda like all of this Gaf?

just arrived today ex brickworx. The rear hoses are coming direct from his supplier and he forgot to pack my long wheel studs to suit my wide drums
Oh all the drums are new but two just have this sticky muck on them tis why they look so bad