Hey guys,
Been reading up about solid state voltage stabilisers and seems like a good idea. They only seem to be available from the US or UK though, can I get one anywhere in Australia? Would rather keep it local.

Cheers
Simon

There was a guy on here sometime ago who used to make them. I think from memory his user name was "wombat"
Cheers Pete

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

Thanks Pete

Have a look at http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-voltage-stabilizer.htm.
I have used 7810 for negative earth vehicles.
My Spitfire stabilizer(Lucas) stopped working in 2000, used a 7805 voltage regulator and a few resistors to generate a stable 10V.
Clive
PS. You could also try Auto Electrics on Wheels, see Business list, Qld.

_________________
Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

I can make you one, send me a PM if you want

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks guys. I've been in contact with Wombat and I think he has them. Will let you know if it's all good or not.

Cheers
Simon

Ive had one of Wombats original ones and it’s been working well for years. They make the temp and fuel very consistent and reliable.

I think Tony from AEOW was even putting them inside old stabilizer boxes so they look original externally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________

68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Thanks Phil

+1 for Wombats stablisers

_________________
Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

I built one with a 7810 regulator inside the original box about three years ago. It has worked perfectly but unfortunately did not solve my problem. The fuel gauge reads low: it shows half full when the tanks are full and empty when they are half full. I was hoping that the problem was the "stabiliser" output, but a very accurate 10 volts made no difference. I am not game to climb in through the back of the binnacle and start bending the fuel gauge lever arms. Ended up making an electronic gauge to measure the voltage at the fuel tank sender input. It also has an alarm. The temp gauge is mechanical.
I have a spare 7810 if you need one as Jaycar etc rarely stock them. Dave D

Having the same issues Dave, also with the temp gauge. Just want to make sure the stabiliser is covered before I start replacing gauges etc.

Cheers
Simon

I forget how to do it, but the gauges do have mechanical adjustment, there's a slot in the back - no need to open them up or bend anything

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Link for adjusting the temp gauge. http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fuel.htm

Good info guys )

I run Wombat's V stabiliser.
My original temp gauge was reading low, with a new sender. I added a trimpot to the sender cable. Adjusted it so N is 74C/180F.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.