Thanks for the feedback everyone.

Out of the eight I've got 1 that has a bit of a squash in the mounting end, 1 has a damaged hose, and one seems to have a faulty internal valve.
There are two pairs and a spare that flushed clean.
One of the pairs has evidence of Two Blue marks on the hose and still have the pin in the end so should be Cooper S hard rear.
The other pair have no obvious markings and the spare is an oddball.
Next time I'm out in the shed I'll use the above info to try and identify them.

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Restoring Mk1 Cooper S
I spend most of my money on cars and Whiskey. The rest I just waste.

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That's a really interesting drawing and table. Displacers always attract a lot of discussion and often debate as to what was fitted to what and how they are identified.

In this post in my build thread there is a bit more information, including identifying dots on the exterior of the shell and also on the rubber itself. Also pics showing the different level of rubber fill for S and non-S displacers.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=98057&p=1043342

Scroll halfway down the page.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Some great help here.

After further cleaning it appears all the first pic are Hard Rear Cooper S with two blue lines.

This makes sence as the part are alledgedly from two cars

I can't find any markings on the others so I'll presume they are Hard front.
This seems right as they take about 280ml of juice to flush. And feel different when compressing them to get the juice out.
One that i"d rejected because the rubber looked cracked, turned out to be paint that was peeling off. So I've got a pair of Front Hard Cooper S.

This flushing could take forever.
I've been Shaking them. Letting em sit. even gave them a few love tap with the copper hammer.
You think it's clean and fill with Glycol mix, and a couple of days latter it drains out brown.

I'm using hot water and a big suringe to flush them. If you burp them as you fill it's a lot quicker but I've been at this for days.

Thanks to all who posted info on identification

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Restoring Mk1 Cooper S
I spend most of my money on cars and Whiskey. The rest I just waste.

I know I'm in the minority here but I don't think there is any real point trying to flush out displacers 'on the bench'. No matter how often you flush one, there is always more muddy fluid when you put it down.
I think the only way is to fit them to a car and run under normal pressure, then drain and fill a few times.

I dismantled some hydro bags. They are not all salveagable. Photos of a not so bad, and one that would never clean and valve u/s

Ignore the hole, that was my work.
I do not seem to have taken a photo of the worst one tin on valve is broken and the rubber valve was only half there.

Cheers Lindsay Siebler

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1967 EX works rally mini restoration virtually complete OBL45F
1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

I take your point that some units will be unserviceable.
In your work you will have seen far more displacers than I have with just my own cars. We don't know their service histories that contributed to the condition of those in your photos.

My point was to encourage people to hang onto these displacers until you know they don't work on a car. There are plenty still functioning 'adequately' on cars and we don't know their real condition without a terminal autopsy.
Sometimes you don't want to know.

I'm amazed how long hydro bags last without collapsing to a donut like rubber cones do.
I just tested 6 for a bloke, not used for years, were all dry as a bone.
After re-hosing 2, they all tested ok and held 270psi.

As for valves deterioration, fitting a set of standard front shocks seems to work fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.