I need to know how to get the shaft for the CV joints out of the gearbox. I was told to get something and hit it in a number of places until it pops out, does that sound right or do I need to lever it out???

Um do you mean the pot joint itself?
I use a thin Gedore open end spanner. Was 1" size- cut it inside with angle grinder to 1.25" wide to fit over the shaft part, then sharpened it so it looks like a big cold chisel with a slot cut in it.
I sit it behind the pot joint from top, slight angle, and hit other end smartly with a BFH.
Of course the other end is now friggin' useless for undoing sump plugs...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc, my mechanic is a young fella that has never worked on a Mini until now.

The CV joints are shot and he isn't sure how to get the shaft to come away from the gearbox so as he can get it out of the car and work on the bench..

You can take the rubber off the inner CV joints and split them here (messy and watch out that you don't loose the ball bearings) this is not the best way to do it but it means you don't need special tools

We tried the other way with crowbars big screwdrivers etc but it was a no go so just we split the joints and when putting them back in put a whole heap of moly grease in the pots and put it back together.

If you can do it Doc's way do it it's neater, better, etc.

To get the CV joint off the shaft (when out) hit it sharply with a BFH or I use a piece of wood (mangles the CV joint less) there s a circlip you have to pop it past

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Fuzzy, I think he means the inner CVs, A.K.A. `Pot joints'. Gotta come out sooner or later or you can't change the seals or gaskets, or work on the diff....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yer, I haven't needed to do the diff yet so hopefully that might be a while.
Good idea for making the tool though

The CV boots on mine were split so we just replacing them before the CVs karked it.

Jeez I hate when the manual says "go find special tool #13845340897(not a real one just for example)" I mean it's a home workshop DIY manual how the hell am I going to find leyland special tools

Just thought I'd explain the outer CVs as well just in case probly confused the issue though

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

If you get a copy of most proper BMC or Leyland manuals they have pics of all the tools... then U just go make some!
Helps if you're a fitter or toolmaker...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Remember to drain the oil! if the oil level is high enough which it hopefully is, it will leak oil out everywhere as soon as you remove the joint. Not nice if you arent expecting it.

If you want to quickly remove the engine then just split the pot joint ribber and take it out that way, it's really easy to do... No oil draining, no special tools, and best of all no hassle getting the pot joint back in again. As said don't lose your balls!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

My young mechanic has now learned how to take CV joints out of a Mini, now he has to put it all back together again tomorrow.

Thanks for the help gentlemen....