Well guys and girls here is the problem.

Put Slidey on a tilt tray friday and off we went to a workshop at Bowen Hills to get his clutch issues fixed.

Now i purchased a new adjustment arm, clevis pins, thrust bearing and all other relative items to hopefully recitfy the issue. If they didn't work i told the head mechanic to change over the master cylinders from .7 to.75 to give a bit more pedal so to speak......... failing that replace the slave cylinder.

Now this arvo i get a call from the mechanic saying "we couldn't get the adjustment right for the clutch so we will have to take the engine out ... i ask did you put the parts i bought in?????? Silence on the other end of the line....... "no"

Now i don't know much about the mechanical side of mini's..... but i'm damn sure i would be putting in the new arm, clevis pins and the thrust bearing before i adjusted again, deeming that they are most likely f&*ked (which is why i bought them in the first place..... )

Even more, i thought that clutches in mini's could be changed in car..... lefthandside engine mount released, lefthand side engine steady off, jack the block under the sump plug, jack up, cover off flywheel puller on pop off the flywheel and away you go...........

Is that right???

I also am beggining to think that i wasted a tilt tray trip to bowen hills because i think that they know absolutely squat about mini mechanics.............

What should i do???

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I got nuthin......................

I agree,
Im no expert but i believe they should be changing the parts you mentioned first.
I am going through the same problem.
I got one place to change the master cylinder and slave cylinder and they wanted to undo the flywheel at another cost.
I changed mechanics and we have been trying to figuer it out,
The barstards(original mechanic) had rpleaced my .75 with a .7 .
Anyway we have changed it back and all new pins.
The mechanic says it better i havent driven it though.
I was thinking about the ford slave cylinder if it doesnt fix.

Good luck
so wasnt the idea of you taking it to them so they would replace with your new parts??
So i dont really get why they wouldnt do what you asked before opening up the flywheel casing nad costing of taking engine out.
I think you need a mini friendly mechanic
unit

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Cooper S Mk 2

go get it take it to Matt Read

Had the same problem. Not possible to change gears..

After replacing the clutch.. in car.... just raised the bugger a bit to get to all the hidden bolts. No fixie the problem. soooooo.. put a master cylinder repair kit in.....still no fixie the problem......fitted a slave cylinder with a repair kit....TaaDhhhh.... all problems solved.

I should have gone the cheap way first and worked up to the "replace Clutch". That's be $150.oo please". should have gone to one slave cup. $1.75.....
Live and learn....I'll know next time.

Pat

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Team MADMAN/Pat Rogers

would be nice if he would....... have been trying to get matt to look at the car since January........ every time i go there to organise i get told "3 weeks mate, i'm very busy"...... i can handle that but i know of more than one other person who has just "dropped" his car off for work without organising a time and it got done immediatly , so it gets a bit frustrating

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I got nuthin......................

Clutch can be done in car 2 hours max with a cup of coffee and a biscuit. To adjust after changing unwind the nut completely put foot on clutch and wind in nut to meet bottom of arm then wind out/in small upper adjustment bolt to meet arm with 25thou gap and done. If the guy wants to take the motor out he has no idea get your car out of there.

steve

Steve (sg), I feel for you mate...I really do.

Personally, don't even think about taking that motor out until EVERYTHING else has been done!!!

The problem I have with my own clutch issues is: "How do you know that NEW master and slave cylinders are actually working?" I mean just because they are new, doesn't always mean they are OK. Manufacturers can make mistakes.

I see Pat changed his slave cylinder and was sorted. I have a new slave cylinder, but what if it is a dud, out of the box? It can happen I spose.

Steve, what is the adjustable arm you sleak of? Is that a slave pushrod with adjustment in it? Save having to bend the clutch arm???

Anton the little bolt that comes out of the clutch housing and looks like it rests on the arm or the arm looks like it comes to rest on the bolt I should say. Does that make sence?
Its about 2 inches up from the thrust race.

steve

Ok.... here's the go...... got my wires crossed yesterday arvo and all of the above has been done in car (thrust bearing in, new adjustment arm and clevis pins etc.) the slave cylinder is fine, as are the master cylinders.....

Still no success.......... but here is the nasty nasty thing that i realised this morning whilst looking at it.......

The crankshaft is moving when the clutch pedal is depressed to the floor.

I have a bad bad feeling........

Is the motor f&*ked

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I got nuthin......................

How far does it move? Sounds like the thrust washers are toast. Does it slow down when you push the clutch in? If so maybe the thrusts were fitted back to front.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep kev the idle drops when you push the pedal to the floor........ the thrust bearing has been replaced... so maybe it's been fitted back to front........

Hmmmm this is really starting to f&*k me right off.......

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I got nuthin......................

steve i think he means the one in the motor ........
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Thanks makka.............. is it engine out time for that then fellas??????

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I got nuthin......................

SG,
The thrust washers in the motor are faced with copper/lead on one side only.
If fitted back to front you have the steel back face of the washer rubbing on the crank. This shags the washers AND the crank if not caught early.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok Doc...... so whats you gut feeling if you saw the crank moving............ game over???? Engine out and bottom end rebuild?

I'm a bit devastated really considering that the car has travelled less than 1500klms since being bought and run in...........

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I got nuthin......................