First off, my pink slip has forced me to fix my clubbys door handles - everything now opens and closes silky smooth.

Second, I find a LS 35 litre tank on ebay for $120.

And finally, the best part so far - I discovered I own a genuine Cooper S crank!!!

I've swapped a swift GTI motor for a 1275, so I was picking which one (I have 3, and they're all knackered) when I thought that I'd never checked the casting numbers. So I pull them out...

Engine number 1: block 12y - ho hum, check crank - see some cast letters on one of the webs. Hmm, that rings a bell - race inside to check web. Type numbers into google - up pops calvers corner - excellent! scroll down to:

AEG316 - EN40B Nitrided 1.625" Journal Cooper S Crank

Woohoo!!!

Turns out the other two were boring old LS lumps or something... So I swapped the most knackered of them. It's off to GR for a rebuild apparently, so she'll be right.

One prob with the S crank - there was an awful lot of end float like some people have been experiencing lately. I hope the thrust bearing has just fallen out or something and the crank isn't stuffed!!!

Anyhoo, enough rambling, happy dreams tonight!!!

Note there's 1/32" difference in centre main journal width between an S, and all the other 1275s.
if you put an S crank into an 1100S or LS block you need to surface grind the back of the thrust washers down.

But if you go the other way (1100S crank into S block) you need thicker ones. Hard to get now as they've stopped making .030" oversize ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmm thanks for the info Doc, but I'm sure it simply doens't have any thrust washer at the moment - crank is moving 1/2".