I think they have already been around long enough to look at reliability. Brad had his on the road for 3 years, track days, drags with all the power being used and he didn't have a single problem.

There have been a few swift gti conversions on the road as well..some for at least 4-5years? with no problems.

There is no way you can compare a 1950's designed engine with a mid 90's one. The manufacturing process and technology is light years ahead in development.

And why should it matter if the engine is in a mini? Look at the starlet forums and the starlets on the road running mild to high boost reliably on stock internals.

I don't have some false hope of reliability, my engine has done 150,000km and i'm going to be running 15psi of boost on stock internals. i am of course going to kill it prematurely, just how long it lasts we will see, but i think it will hold up quite well. Do the same treatment to an A-series and it wont thank you for it.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Dont forget the elctronics. The jap engines with programable ecus give a level of power flexibilty you just cant get with a a-series, an su and blower. Engine mapping gives you the ability to produce power by choice, eg turn it for dyno day and turn it down to go home.

If you put a conversion in and somehow managed to connect it to the original harness, the reliability would be identical, sh!7e.

I can hose out my A-series engine bay with the engine running and it doesn't miss a beat due to my rewiring job. Modern wiring is sealed properly at the connectors.

It's obvious if you got a modern car then the reliability of this would be better than a 25-45 year old Mini, but the two joined would depend on which "better" bits were included and how good the conversion is done.

I had to do repairs on a 13bt (1988) converted RA23 celica (1976 model) after the reputable shop mucked it up. Besides a sump that got hit by the drag link (steering bit) and the flexible engine mount (needed gusset) and the welded exhaust flange that wasn't flat and the turbo that fell off when the bolts came out, the loom caught fire when a relay was wired directly to the battery and through a hole on the chassis rail to the computer inside the car. Reliable? not really....

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Quality and reliability are better in newer cars.
Manufacturing standards have gone a long way since the a series time
advances in accuracy in machining and casting with composites gives a better life nowerdays.

However, I have seen some a series that have a great reliability.

Theirs a large ammount of statistic's in manufacturing of a car

ford statistically 1 falcon in about 5,000 has a prefectly blueprinted motor out of the factory. This is because of luck in materials manufacture and assembly. The majority of cars are close but theirs a small difference and a few cars that get manufactured that will need replacment parts during warranty.

This isn't planned but is just an occurance of external factors.

Reliability isn't always going to be a straight line that is definate or tangible. Their are A-series that are luck to be just right, and some toyota's or honda's that might just be lemons.

it's a bit luck of the old "luck of draw"

if you modify an A-series heavily you reduce reliability of the motor and driveline. same goes if you wind the boost up on a Toyota. All perfomance mods reduce reliability

However, Toyota Honda Nissan and other Modern motor manufacturers are light years ahead of any A-series as far as how "close to perfect" these motors are out of the factory.

Hope this helps understand the argument a bit better

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

New cars more reliable? Depends.... Try and fix a minor problem on a BMW built turbo diesel in a Land Rover discovery...Basically you can't. But it's never (almost never) mechanical problems, same as the mini, well my mini anyway. But always sensors dying or wiring shorting inside the head or an injector drying out, the list goes on. Although my mini doesn't have electronic failures(as it's got none to fail ), the only problems I ever get is electrical failures. But it's never my lucas stuff (what's left of it anyway, I got N15 pulsar alternator and soon-to-be-put-in pulsar dizzy) my Narva circuit breakers fail and break the circuit but do not re-connect. Basically what i'm getting at is that I have no doubts that a starlet conversion would be more reliable but I'm also saying that a mini can be perfectly dependable as long as you make it, and keep it that way! Replace dodgy bits, change oil regularly, don't over rev it. Check fluid levels frequently. Use quality electrical components, eg connectors, fuse boxes etc. The list goes on here toom that;s the other thing no matter what the mini will need more maintenace for high levels of reliaibility..ok I reckon I've said enough...

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

minis are plenty reliable, 40 years proves that

i think an easy way to almost sum it up is that the mini is what 40 years, old back then they designed cars to last eternally (i think rust is an exclusion to a point as this is still a problem with any car eventaully) where as almost every car maker these days are making cars that are really only designed to last a certain amount of time eg warranty period and a few more years most car these days have more moving parts most of the ignition and fuel delivery is electronic making mods more of a pain (and in the wallet) where as there are fewer in a mini engine there is only a hand full of pieces of wire running the engine most of the parts are rather cheap for them and some are being made again on production the only real question is do you want to drive it and forget whats under the bonnet (in that just stuff a g13b or the toyota motor and you can)
but if you run a mini motor and you want it to be reliable get a good quality rebuilt motor and maintain it it should last another 40 years besides they sound better

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why does everyone want a Cooper S when you ca have a better Clubby

I don't really know why we get a slamming from purist's for swaping motors, It's our car's and THE BOTTOM LINE: We are leaving the few mini parts that are left to those who want them. When it's your car and you own it and have paid for it in full you can do waht you want with it.

I don't mean to criticize us here as a whole (and I know it's only a fewe) but we are quick to criticise other peoples enginuity on this site. Its always like " like your work but I would have done it differently"

BUY the mini and do it differently These cars have personality and are unique I wouldn't like mini's if they were like 3 Series and all looked the Sames

Sorry about the 5 cent's worth

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

Well I guess I can jump on here and say, its luck of the draw.
I've owned both at the same time. the conversion and a 1275 a series.

There were times that I had both off the road with problems. But there have been time when both worked perfectly. As someone mentioned before, you could just get a lemon.

My A series, was pretty much standard, (cam, extractors) and my conversion is modified to all buggery. They both have problems. All cars do. I know people with brand new cars who are back and forth to the workshops to get things fixed. But I know the same amount of people with old cars who have dramas.

As for the purist's. As HP said, its our choice, our car. Don't like it, live with it. If I end up getting another mini, Ill be looking towards MR Enforcer or 13secmini for a conversion subframe. Personal preference.

Theres my 3cents worth.

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Torque Steer is a very evil thing. Fun..... but evil.

West Aussie Mini Boys Represent...!!!

Well Jon, as you know the dyno didn't go as planned. The guy indicated I need new injectors (larger) and a new ECU. Had a chat to people on AUStarlet and they said not so quick. Pulled the feed line to the EFI Pump and my hand got covered in metallic grit (tons of it) i think I have found my lean out problem (or cause)!.

I have decided to take the right hand tank out of the equation. Still cheaper than a aftermarket ECU and injectors!!!

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Matt

As we said it had to be something simple as the car was better only days before, sounds like that cheapo filter before the pump is the go mate, looks like a fun time cleaning the system out

Mate take the r/h tank out and sell it and for what you get for it you should be able to get a fuel cell made

Jon

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Roundies and Clubbies(except vans) are both ugly that is why I have Midas and a van
1293 Mini Midas Bronze,1275 Clubman van

Yeah Jon should have put in after the Bosch pump went west. I can persevere on some thing and be absolutely lazy on others...Still have the filter now hopefully the little prefilter which is located on the intake side on Pierburgs has done its job...? Should find out tonight...

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

PS great to hear you found the crud log jam Matt....these are just teething problems

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"Show me the Mini!"

Mick, yeah pulled it out last night basically completely blocked with crap so no wonder it was running lean. Which means the whole thing about new injectors ecu etc probably isn't true. Yeah this filter in the end of the Pierburg has not only saved the pump but probably alot of other things too. Pulled the line off the front of the pump and the petrol was clean as a whistle. So I am very sure this was the issue with lean out. Brilliant something going my way for a change. I have it booked in for a dyno on thursday so maybe finally I can get the final output of the engine mods...

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Matt,

I hope all goes well for the next run.

You have had your fair share of problems and its about time you handed them over to someone else (no, not me!!)

Good luck for Thursday!

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"