ausmini :: View topic - Warwick Agustin's 4AGE on a mini gearbox

Brad, i have a mate who rallies a sprinter levin, he would disagree with you about the "unbreakable" part, those TRD rods look pretty poking through the block. :evil:

Doogie

just shootin the hijackers

if it was me and there was all this fancy machining going on, rather than cutting a mini crank tail off a crank and welding it onto the 4AG crank, i would hve machined up an entirely new tail that just bolted to the end of the 4AG crank like the flywheel does. not having the measurements and clearances involved makes this sound much easier than it would actually be.

michael

mickmini wrote:

Which is exactly how they used to fit Ford BDA etc motors to Mini boxes....
oops! another can of worms opened here... :lol:

You could use a `silent' (Morse) chain, like on the Austin 1800 automatic...
The sprockets are involute shape, like a gear.. probably don't need a tensioner.
Very strong too.

Author:	13secmini [ Thu Jul 14, 2005 5:50 pm ]
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Go the toyotas!! unbreakable

Author:	doogie [ Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:51 pm ]
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Brad, i have a mate who rallies a sprinter levin, he would disagree with you about the "unbreakable" part, those TRD rods look pretty poking through the block. Doogie

Author:	13secmini [ Fri Jul 15, 2005 7:26 am ]
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2 S's & a clubman wrote: Brad, i have a mate who rallies a sprinter levin, he would disagree with you about the "unbreakable" part, those TRD rods look pretty poking through the block. Doogie Hehe think he may have to bring his rev limit down, or get a better tune.

Author:	doogie [ Fri Jul 15, 2005 8:32 am ]
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Rev limit is 9,000 rpm,it does'nt go till 5,000rpm because of the cams in it, the engine let go at around 5,500 in 3rd gear curing a rally, 1st event with the "super TRD rods", so he's going back to the standard ones that have never failed. Expensive lesson for him. Doogie

Author:	Metalfab_101 [ Fri Jul 15, 2005 8:35 am ]
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Dammit, i've been hijacked!

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Warwick Agustin's 4AGE on a mini gearbox https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=9036	Page 2 of 2

Author:	mickmini [ Sun Jul 17, 2005 8:49 pm ]
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just shootin the hijackers if it was me and there was all this fancy machining going on, rather than cutting a mini crank tail off a crank and welding it onto the 4AG crank, i would hve machined up an entirely new tail that just bolted to the end of the 4AG crank like the flywheel does. not having the measurements and clearances involved makes this sound much easier than it would actually be. michael

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sun Jul 17, 2005 10:15 pm ]
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mickmini wrote: just shootin the hijackers if it was me and there was all this fancy machining going on, rather than cutting a mini crank tail off a crank and welding it onto the 4AG crank, i would hve machined up an entirely new tail that just bolted to the end of the 4AG crank like the flywheel does. not having the measurements and clearances involved makes this sound much easier than it would actually be. michael Which is exactly how they used to fit Ford BDA etc motors to Mini boxes.... oops! another can of worms opened here...

Author:	Metalfab_101 [ Mon Jul 18, 2005 5:26 am ]
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drmini in aust wrote: mickmini wrote: just shootin the hijackers if it was me and there was all this fancy machining going on, rather than cutting a mini crank tail off a crank and welding it onto the 4AG crank, i would hve machined up an entirely new tail that just bolted to the end of the 4AG crank like the flywheel does. not having the measurements and clearances involved makes this sound much easier than it would actually be. michael Which is exactly how they used to fit Ford BDA etc motors to Mini boxes.... oops! another can of worms opened here... I thought this would be the best way to do it too. Any idea how the chain drive is tensioned?

Author:	mickmini [ Tue Jul 19, 2005 1:35 pm ]
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can't remember

Author:	Metalfab_101 [ Tue Jul 19, 2005 3:03 pm ]
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mickmini wrote: can't remember Thanks anyway Mick I was thinking it could be setup like the timing chain on A series but my guess is it'd be better having a tensioner setup.

Author:	drmini in aust [ Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:01 pm ]
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You could use a `silent' (Morse) chain, like on the Austin 1800 automatic... The sprockets are involute shape, like a gear.. probably don't need a tensioner. Very strong too.

Author:	Metalfab_101 [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 5:30 am ]
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drmini in aust wrote: You could use a `silent' (Morse) chain, like on the Austin 1800 automatic... The sprockets are involute shape, like a gear.. probably don't need a tensioner. Very strong too. To be practical it would have to be easy to get source replacement chains & get a hold of the gears in the first place. Keeping it lubricated would be an issue that you'd need to look at though. When I first thought about it I was thinking of a belt drive, but i'm doubtful that a belt that will fit (I am thinking 25mm wide) would survive in that application. The silent chain thing sounds the goods. More efficient than helical drop gears too and if using Austin 1800 bits it'd "keep it in the family" EDIT: Found some good info on silent chains (also known as inverted tooth chains) here.

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