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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 11:40 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
Something I would not have imagine 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:57 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Hurstbridge n/e Melbourne
fully sic :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:32 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:52 pm
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
I wanna steal those rims. They are exactly what I want on the Corona Coupe. Even the stud pattern is right. :)

Seriously, they do look really good on the Morrie.

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
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1965 Morris Mini Traveller
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:30 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 1:37 pm
Posts: 2495
Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
MX5 Plus in Brisbane is a good place to look if you want 15x6.5" Watanabes. That's where I got my 15x7 set from. Mine don't have the multi-piece look with the bolts.

I love them.

Nice work on the 1100. It looks great.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:40 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
OTM = One Tuff Morrie!! :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:14 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:56 pm
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Location: Brisbane
I found a bloke off the mx5 forum on the sunshine coast who had a set of 14" watanabe's. 4x100 though.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:06 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
JC wrote:
I found a bloke off the mx5 forum on the sunshine coast who had a set of 14" watanabe's. 4x100 though.


Exactly. 4x100 is no good when the Corona is 4x114.3.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:12 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 678
Location: Melbourne
BACK OFF BINCHO!!! I've been looking a long time for these rims.

Nah seriously though, the guy I got them off had them for a TA22 but the offset was wrong. It just happens to be perfect for my application. For the Corona you'd want a bit of deep dish, that would look awesome.

Thanks for all the compliments guys, getting there slowly. Hope to have the subframe out and finished soon.

Madmorrie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:21 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
madmorrie wrote:
For the Corona you'd want a bit of deep dish, that would look awesome.


I can't get deep dish under the front guards if I'm gonna lower it. :(

I need something like 14x6 +10 or 14x7 +20 on the front and 14x8 at 0 offset on the rear.

Some day I will find the perfect rims! :twisted:

Anyway, back on topic!

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:19 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 678
Location: Melbourne
I was told by the seller that these rims are +34mm, which I guess works out cause the original 4.5 inch steelies are something like +60mm?

They fit. So I'm happy.


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 Post subject: Alt Mount
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:59 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
Posts: 678
Location: Melbourne
Hi guys,

Time for a bit of an update. Since last time we bought a new project, got stuck into it to find it was not as simple as it looked. (anyone want to buy a Valiant?) Now selling it so it's back to this project. Hopefully I can spend a fair bit of time over summer and get it much further along.

Have finished gearshift cable mount mk3. Engineer had me move the cables higher up so I didn't have to notch the subframe which necessitated mk2, but it was way to flimsy, and while it worked, I didn't want to end up hard changing one day to find it had bent. So I made mk3 out of box section, feels much better. I'll post a pic once I've 'swiss cheesed' it.

OK, I've finally decided to hang the alternator through the inner guard like you all have. It will make the alt mount harder to make, but no less ugly than what I had. Also I think I'll revert back to the starlet alt as it will simplify wiring. Can anyone shoe me decent pics of what they ended up with to clear frames and belts etc..

I've now decided on going with water to air intercooling (I like the plazamaman ones) so there will be a pump to run and possibly a small fan as well.

I need to do a wrecker run to canibalise a bunch of cars. Anyone know if there is a pick-a-part style wrecker in the west of Melbourne?

Madmorrie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:57 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Sun Feb 11, 2007 2:21 pm
Posts: 1612
Location: Soon to be Newcastle
pick-a-part in cambellfield just off the ring road...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:09 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
Right, December seems to be the last time I posted, must be time to post some kind of update. Nothing major to report other than me changing my mind about a number of things, mainly to speed it up. My priority is now to get it going, so 'simplify filter' is being applied to every part of the build.

I wanna drive this thing!!! I would love to take it to the Minishow in July, probably in an unpainted but driveable state so that's kind my target now.

Driveable by July!!! There I said it out loud...

First example of my 'simplify' philosophy was with the intercooler - If I keep the Toyota top-mount, use all the factory hardware and there's one job pretty much finished, just need to cut a hole in the bonnet.

Anyway, rather than rabbit on I'll just post a bunch of pics.

Image

Image

3mm steel folded to reinforce side of frame. Other side will be similar, but has engine mount and alt thru it so not the full length.

Image

Image

Wood mockup of Alt Mount. Gone back to Charade alt for space considerations. Can't cut inner guard any higher due to box section and can't go lower due to frame. Alt mounts with only two points so I'm trying to make the mounts super rigid, hence top one is going to be a block of alloy.

Image

Image
BMC put a plate in so I didn't have to crawl under the dash to cut this hole. I drilled it out on the bench nice and civilised like...

Image

Image

Image
Here you can see the reasons for the tunnel mods.

Image

Not connected properly at this point and the top angle will be slightly less severe at the top joint. OK, steering column is (from bottom to top) Standard rack, half a Rover SD1 steering uni (same spline as mini) matched with half a starlet lower uni, this joins to a half Mitsubishi Nimbus lower column which joins to the end of the Nimbus upper column which I have machined to be a press fit in the end of the starlet column (will get a cross pin put in to stop twisting) . No welding required so hopefully this will pass engineering OK. If it doesn't I got back to the standard column for now.

Image
Mk 3 gearshift cable stop. Fiddly bastard of a thing to get nice and rigid.

Image
Too easy, starlet hardware all the way. Just had to weld the end of the EP82 pedal to mine.

Image
As it looks now.

No pics but I think I have got on to some wheel arch flares that will fit so saving a bunch of metal work. And time. I am just about ready to pull it all out again for all the bracing to the subframe, then get it checked by the engineer and then send it to get finally welded.

Cheers

Madmorrie


Last edited by madmorrie on Thu May 13, 2021 10:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:08 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 7:19 pm
Posts: 5370
Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
Wow that is going great by the looks of it. Even with the bigger engine bay it still doesn't look any easier that the mini blokes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 7:09 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
Posts: 3183
Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Crikey there is a lot of room in there! :shock:

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