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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 11:35 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2004 4:36 pm
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you guys are wrong about brickworx, the first listing was for a NON efi fuel tank, the more recent one is for an EFI fuel tank, thats why there was a price difference.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:01 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Madmorrie,

The batteries (there will be two) are Odyssey brand fully sealed gel cells and they will go in the bins next to the rear seats with lids on them.

One battery will just be for starting the engine, the other will be for powering the accesories etc, and they will be bridged when the engine is running by a solenoid so they both get charged.

Once the engine is off, they are isolated so the engine start battery will never get drained.

Regards,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:31 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Madmorrie,

Sorry, the 2nd question.

The aussie starlet sender/pump unit I used for a couple of reasons:
1. Sender unit is calibrated to the Starlet gauge
2. Compact, in tank design which includes pre-filter, pump and sender unit all in one.
3. Fitted the dimesions (height) of the tank to a tee.

The pump, while too small to deliver to the fuel rail adeqautely at high rpm on the 4EFTE, will fill the surge tank just fine. The main delivery pump is a bosch 910 (450+hp rated).

Here is the pre-filter/sender/pick-up unit:
Image
Cost from the wreckers - $65.00

Here is a shot of the surge tank and pump in position, 2 litre capacity.
Image

Hope this helps and thanks for the kind words.

Regards,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:48 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:56 pm
Posts: 461
Location: warrimoo nsw
nice set up Archangel007

just wondering how you fix the sender/pump unit to the tank ?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 3:17 am 
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1360cc
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Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:41 pm
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
With a mounting flange on the top of the tank
- I did the same with a Subaru pump for my moke

Image

sorry about the pic size :oops:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:40 am 
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gzeVan,

The sender is fixed in the identical manner to AWDMoke.

There are 8 x machine thread screws that screw into the reinforcing rijng at the top of the tank. The ring is clearly visible in the photo of the tank.

A rubber gasket underneath seals the whole unit.

Regards,
Andrew

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:21 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:56 pm
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Location: warrimoo nsw
love the concept guys and the use of the pump feeding the surge tank , im going to chase around for a sirion one today, but use it on the original tank.
My lift pump is one of those loud tickers and im fed up with the sound

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88 Rover Mini


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 1:21 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 5:50 pm
Posts: 154
Location: Canberra
Thanks guys for the feedback

I was just looking through some old issues of my mini mags and seen a alloy tank in the wheel well similiar to archangle077 but round it was on a purple clubman sedan which is now a vtec i think if anyone remembers, so i might do that and just get a honda sender / pickup unit.

Just curious whats an alloy tank roughly cost to get made????

Thanks

Steven :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 3:30 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2005 8:47 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Sydney
Mr Enforcer quoted me just over 600 bucks for a rectangular cell (400x300x300) with sump, inlet, outlet, vent and filling holes. It's alot cheaper to get a premade one, they come in all sorts of sizes and materials. Your probably looking at $300 including sender and fittings.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 6:18 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Sunburst,

I took the view of getting a tank built to my own specification.

So, I took a detailed and dimensioned drawing to a local aluminium fab shop.

That way, they would build exactly what I wanted.

In my opinion, if you paid more than about $300-350 for this it would be too much.

This is a good way to shop around - you'll soon learn what constitutes a good price.

Cheers,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:44 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2005 8:23 pm
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Location: Concord West, NSW
Archange,

That setup will work a treat. Also understand why you set the system up like you did, twin exhaust, rusty boot floor.

Keep us posted.

Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:58 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Thanks Dan,

Seriously thinking about starting a thread ala Dean's Bigbad so people can see what I have done and why I have done it.

Its been over a year now and I still havent got the thing on the road.

Anyway, if I can help solve other forumites problems or shed some light its all a good thing.

Thanks for the kind words, an I will keep you all posted.

Regards,
Tricky

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 10:55 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2005 8:47 pm
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Location: Sydney
Hey Archange,

I think you should definitely start a thread on your build. It looks like you are doing some really good work, and have put loads of thought into it. I think a lot of people would agree with me. :D :D Start a thread
:lol: :lol:

Cheers,
Pierre


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 12:57 pm 
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Location: Concord West, NSW
I agree ^^^, start a thread so we can monitir the progress.

Dan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:20 pm 
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
So it is written, so let it be done!!

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