Well i'm getting there with some of the rust. Got the rear valance off last night ready for a new one when i get to going and buying one. Started fixing some rust around the drivers side wheel arch. Then moved onto the door frame where i found another mother load of rust...





More work! Not sure how i'll go replicating the shape... But i'll give it a crack.

Put the shifter in last night too....



Another topic again - who out there has used what master cylinders for the clutch? Haven't looked into it yet, I'm assuming it has to have X stroke for the 4EFTE clutch. Anyone know what X is? How have people mounted em?

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Mini clutch master cylinder is fine!

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

I have the mini clutch m/c in my car with the standard ep82 slave. Its OK for the weekend spirited drives I use it for, but if you're thinking of building yours for daily driving it might be a bit hard of the left leg in traffic.

There is a thread on here somewhere about substitute master & slave cyls.
I seem to recall the local 4efe starlet slave cylinder reduced the pedal effort somewhat. You could also look at the other fwd corolla variants of the era as the gearboxes are very similar.

You are looking for a bigger dia slave to give you reduced effort, but at the expense of longer pedal travel. (the pedal travel is pretty short - but good for fanging - with the mini ep82 combo)

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

Josh (Mini Mad) I think had his master cylinder re-sleved or something along those lines to reduce the pedal effort. Might be worth asking him

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

Josh has a local EP82 Starlet slave in his - bore size 7/8". my 4EFTE came with a 3/4" slave on it but will probably change up to the 7/8" to make the pedal effort easier (but as '77 Clubby Van says, it will then have a longer pedal travel)

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

SWEET! Good to hear - one thing i don't have to go out and buy...

BTW does anyone know the deal with different fuel tanks re: ADRs? I want to put a different tank in cos i want to run the roll cage into the rear wheel arches.

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You need to get yourself a copy of the appropriate regulations for SA. Try SA equivalent of Vicroads / RTA website.
Or one of the guys who have done the conversion in SA.

I have PDFs of all the relevant DOTARS regs which I can send you if you want but I'm not sure how much they will apply to your state.

EDIT: PM me your email address and I'll email them to you.

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

As James says, get your relevant States regulations on vehicle modifications.

Mostly, they will refer to DOTARS anyway, so make sure you have the latest Vehicle safety Bulletin (No. 14 I believe) to refer to.

Fuel tanks are relatively easy, in that you only have to abide by a few guidelines, like construction material, venting and method of fixing. Buying on off-the-shelf approved fuel cell is also worth considering and perfectly legal.

Make sure you run your idea past your Engineer as well, as (in QLD) he has the final say and can veto it if he feels it is not up to standard.

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Got a copy of the relevant ADR's from work on Friday and you guys are right... there really isn't anything that scary at all - surprising really!

Been in the shed for most of today and got the following done.

Got more laser cut bits to make my lower radiator mount and got to put it all together tonight. The radiator is an after-market one for an EK Honda Civic and was able to pick it up for around 100 bucks. I've had to cut the outlet off and plan to weld one somewhere centrally on the rad (i think). Getting piping from the rad to the engine is going to prove to be a pain in the ass it seems!



Checked for bonnet clearance and thankfully everything is sweet!



A shot from the side:



Also got my alternator bracket finished and mounted. Now just have to get some more brackets sorted for the top of the radiator and the alternator tensioner.... And also plan on doing an idler pulley for tensioning of the water pump.

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Good work Amos,

Coming along nicely!

Keep up the good work mate.

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

you can buy a repair panel that goes there, or do what I did and cut it out of another car

Thanks guys

Hey Simon, do you know where i can get that replacement panel? Found this one on minisport http://minisport.com.au/prod1656.htm, but its for rover and don't know if it will fit the clubby..

I plan to head down to these guys in the next few weeks and pick up a rear valance and closing panels - and if money permits a front panel too!

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for that price I'd go with that one...

Cheers mate... will have to get down there in coming weeks when i have a lull in making engine bay bits.

Went off to U-pull-it today and looked around for some bits. Unfortunately they didn't have the starlet i was looking for (it was at the other site - the other side of the bloody city). I did however get hold of a 4PK idler for my water pump tensioner for 7 bucks!! This is from the AE92 rolla:



The bearing is bit stuffed, but its a std NSK 6301 bearing which is a POP to get out and replace.

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And yet another q for all the knowledgeable people around here... I'm looking into remote oil filter kits... What is the hole on the top right for?? Oil pressure? Oil temp sensor??

Guess i need to know what i need on the remote kit before i commit to buying one...

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