Gents,

Whats the recomendation? Should I use the entirity of the starlet loom (for lights, indicators, wiper motor and what not) or should a keep the mini loom for the mini bits and the starlet loom for the starlety bits?

Does anyone have a quick guide to the starlet bits I can rip out straight away (eg. air con stuff?)

JC

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

my advice to you if your using the stock ECU would be to keep as much of the loom as possible. If your using the starlet loom you should only really have trouble with the wiper motor if your using the mini wiper motor. I would try and salvage as much as possible the electrics in my 1/2 cut were so much better than the 30 year old loom in the mini. this all depends what instruments etc you are using

I don't have a guide per say to what to cut but I'm sure that if you sat down for a few hours and drew up a diagram it would help you having problems as you went.

let me know if you need a 4efte starlet wiring diagram, I think I have some info on it.

work out what's staying and what's going and go from there

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

I'm running the starlet cluster and starlet steering column so I guess the only 'stuff' I can really cut out is the air con.

Is anybody able to tell me what the 'brake switch' in the mini braking system actually does? Bearing in mind i have a early morris.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

The brake switch is exactly that.
A N/O pressure activated switch that closes when the brakes are applied, sending power directly to the brake lights.

If the Starlet has a pedal activated microswitch, I'd be using that

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Of course - brake switch, switches the lights on. Do i feel stupid or what!

I know there is power to the booster but I would say that is to tell you if the resevoir is getting low (by putting the handbrale light on).

So you rection I should connect the mini brake switch to the starlet pedal acitivited brake switch, makes sense. I think you are right in that it is activated at the pedal (on the starlet).

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

All cars since 1977 ??? (including minis) have had a hand brake light.

"Brake Fail" warning lights (the low brake level sensor that the wire on the Starlet master is for) came later.

You won't need either of these for complience.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Well I have the later model dual brake line master cylinder with the brake fail switch in it. Reckon I should wire it in?

You'll have to forgive me, I am prepared to give anything a shot but I just don't know anything about electrics.

I am i going to run into difficulty fitting the starlet loom to things like master cylinder, wiper motor, lights and what not? By trouble I mean mini lights 'receiving' too much power as a result of output from the starlet alternator or is all the sort of stuff corrected by fuses?

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

By all means connect the mini dual master level sensor to the Starlet loom. The level sensor is just a reed switch, activated by a float in the reseviour with magnet inside it.

You will not burn out globes or wiring (so long as you connect it up right) by splicing the mini lights onto the Starlet loom. The lights will be brighter due to better quality wiring & the use of relays.

Using the Starlet loom also gives you the protection of separate fuses fuses for the various circuits, making it unlikely that you can melt any wiring when you do first power it up (the so called "smoke test").

Spread the loom out & label all the connections. Doing one bit at a time e.g. headlights, then tail lights, etc will make it easy. Wipers may be tricky. Haven't connected my wipers yet, but will let you know how I go as the Impreza wiring is similar to the Starlet

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Later model Minis had a pedal activated switch. Perhaps you should fit one of those and connect the starlet wiring to that. The hydraulic ones are a bit cheap & unreliable these days, and the pedal mounted switch has the benefit that you can make the brake lights come on before the brakes take effect, rather than after as is usually the case with the hydraulic switch.

Is it feasable to use the Starlet loom for the front of the car, instruments, engine, etc, and retain the Mini rear loom section and just make them plug together? They were two seperate sections originally.

Hi JC,

Andy Spittal and I worked out the following:

In wiring up the dual speed Mini wiper motor to the starlet loom and have four wires from the starlet end coloured as follows:
BLUE intermittent wipe
BLUE/BLACK lo speed
BLUE/BROWN hi speed
BLUE/YELLOW fusebox

There are five wires coming from the Mini wiper motor as follows:
BLACK earth
BLUE/LT GREEN intermittent
RED/LT GREEN low speed
BROWN/LT GREEN high speed
LT GREEN/ORANGE should go to fuse box in Mini loom

If you dont have the intermittent wiper motor simply dont connect this part up.

Simply earth the BLACK, joining the starlet BLUE/YELLOW to the Mini LT GRN/ORANGE then connect up the others as described above.


Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Where would you like to start? I succesfully undertook all of the above and it will take you some time to get through it all.

I kept the entire front end of the starlet loom and wired the backend of the mini into it (this was the easiest part). I untapped the starlet loom and pulled out the AC loom-make sure you bridge the sac sensor that was next to the as bottle otherwise your thermo fan will run all the time- i actually wired up an overide switch so i could run my thermo at any time if required. The AC wiring will remove alot of fuses and cabling as will the ABS. I also removed the door light switches and fader contol this was mainly because i have the 850 stalk you may wish to retain and make it operable. Mine being the 850 did not have reverse lights however i decide to wire it up to light up the indicators when in reverse much like the old american cars, also wired up hazzards, starlet stop lamp switch to pedal box by welding in a tab and bracket-works a treat.

I have to say tht the hardest part was finding a wiring diagram that would help. The Aus Starlet site has 1 wiring diagram which gives you a the engine loom and comp details-I do not think it is right, in fact when searching the forum and asking Q's i found out that it was actuallly not a starlet diagram???? Some of the guys on the forum have the right diagrams but will not give out copies (power hungry). So i got the shits god and proper about that.

My mates an auto electrician so i went and saw him and borrowed the BIBLE, i then copied all the toyota section and sat down over a week and tried to figure out which car diagram i could use? how toyota wired their cars etc. And you would not believe it but the tercel is almost identical to the starlet, there are only a few wires that they changed colours but generally you can figure out what is going on. So i spent about 40-60hrs wiring it all up and that included time figuring out the diagrams and sketching some circuits to make mine work- DONT forget i used all mini interior.

JC if you need any info give me a yell and i'll try and remember what i did.

DON'T EVEN DARE trying to use the mini wiring in the front it will be a nightmare and unreliable.

DAN

Help again

Nearly finished the wiring, 2 problems left, the wiper motor and fuel sender.
on the wiper starlet end, i have
BLUE
BLUE/BLACK
BLUE/BROWN
BLUE/YELLOW

On the mini motor I have
BLACK earth
BLUE/LT GREEN
RED/LT GREEN
BROWN/LT GREEN
GREEN

also, which are the sender wires I use for the mini tank.
Thanks

Dan - What is the sac sensor & what is it used for? Is "the as bottle" a typo?

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

The SAC sensor is screwed into one of the Air Con pipes it has light green wires connected to it if I remember correctly.
Not exactly sure what it senses when its removed if the circuit is left open the radiator fan will constantly run if bridged the fan will act as normal
and be thermo controlled.
I wired a dash mounted switch into mine so I can force the fan on if needed.

SAC sensor tells the ECU that the A/C refrigerant needs cooling, so the ECU ignores engine temperature and runs the fan to cool the A/C condenser.

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Too many cars, and too little time.