This particular example has been mentioned on the forums before:



From a glance can anyone see any problems getting this engineered in QLD? (apart from the interesting booster mechanism)
Has anyone had a good experience with an engineer on the north side and can recommend one to have a chat with?

It looks like it would be a nice compact conversion without too much subframe chopping and I like the non-tubular design, it looks like it would retain a lot of strength.




Check out this thread for a more detailed discussion:
http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showt ... hp?t=18607

Thats the worst subframe I've ever seen.
Not just because of the terrible colour and very bad quality of welding either.

Lots of pieces doing nothing there, and others would be overstressed in the long run.

Lots of little improvements would go a long way.

haha, the welds and colour really are terrible!

Here's a pic that gives a better look at a few motors in situ:


I'm not sure why the notch was added in the first pic I posted, maybe for exhaust clearance?
Feel free to comment on areas that could be improved

Can you buy these "off the shelf" Sam or are you hoping to copy the design?

I wish someone would hurry and work out an auto that will fit.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

I'm hoping to copy the basic design.
I'd love to do the turbo CB motor like Brad has done but they're too hard to find now. The CG13DE as you can see in the first post is a pretty tiny combo as well I'd be ditching the dissy for crank-fired ignition and possibly fitting an N12 Nissan exa box (which is apparently even smaller!) if I decide to go down this route.

I like the fact that the entire original subframe remains and is gusseted and modified to clear the motor combo. Obviously not possible with the bigger motors like a 4EFTE (unless used with the Nissan box seen above)

Here's a few more photos of the original build up of one of these subframes:

Fancy changing the oil...

No reflection on the frame but I expect you would have to relocate the oil filter.

What's the desired outcome Sam? What do you want to achieve?

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Tossing up my powerplant options and this little beast caught my eye.
The main attraction of this conversion for me apart from the usual conversion benefits (EFI, 5 speed) is the relative simplicity of the subframe modifications. The biggest expense of a conversion like this would likely be driveshafts and engineering.

I'm always on the lookout for different engines to transplant. A 1NZFE toyota motor would be nice too. Trouble is the newer you go the more bloody wiring there is


Choices, choices.

They are not very powerful and a low km 1NZ-FE would be easier to find than a low km Micra engine. Simply because of the age.

Mircas are not exactly common in wreckers, but smashed Echo and Yaris will be with us for many years to come. Plus there is plenty of aftermarket stuff available for them overseas.

If I had the time I'd love to buy a smashed Echo and go the 1NZ-FE route myself. But I already have too many cars and not enough time to maintain them.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Sam,

Whatever happened to the Mitsubishi donk you had at one stage???

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

I sold that one to fund the engine rebuild on my Morry ute.
It has crossed my mind again though...

my wife's friend has an echo 1.5, and it's one of the most horrible things I've ever driven, the gear ratios are just diabolical

Yeah, you said that before. What was odd about them? Too wide spacing?

I've driven a 1.5 Sportivo and it was fine, but the ratios might be different.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

huge gap between 1st and 2nd, another big gap to 3rd, then 3rd, 4th and 5th are about 500rpm apart - just too hard to keep a flow of changes when driving. You kinda have to adjust the change point depending on what gear you're in - horrible thing...

just googling, these might be the ratios - certainly shows the gap from 1st to 2nd. You'd think you could forget about 1st gear and just use 2nd up, but it doesn't have the torque for it - if it was only lugging a mini, then maybe...

First Gear Ratio (:1)3.55
Second Gear Ratio (:1)1.90
Third Gear Ratio (:1)1.31
Fourth Gear Ratio (:1)0.97
Fifth Gear Ratio (:1)0.82

Any more news on this conversion ?