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Doogie's guide to removing a mini engine https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=45377 |
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Author: | doogie [ Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | Doogie's guide to removing a mini engine |
There has been much discussion about removing a mini engine & whats involved, heres a guide of how to do it The victim, my Mk1 Cooper S ![]() Try to have a tidy work area, spend 1/2 cleaning up & sweeping the floor ![]() I like to have my tools clean & organised ![]() Now onto the process, step 1 disconnect the battery ![]() Open the bonnet & remove the 4 7/16 headed nuts on the bonnet hinges, tip put some sheet foam or a folded up rag under the corners of the bonnet to prevent scrathes ![]() Remove the grill, on rounnoses theres 4 screws, on a clubman there 7 also remove the bonnet closing panel on a clubman ![]() Safely jack up the car & put study axles stands under & lower onto stands ![]() Drain engine oil, sump plug is located on the front left of the engine, a 15/16 socket or spanner is needed ![]() This is not uncommon, the sump plugs are magnetised so stray bits of metal stick to it ![]() Remove the front wheels ![]() If fitted remove the brake booster & steel brake pipes that plumb it to the brake system ![]() A magnet on a stick helps to avoid dropping nuts into engine bay ![]() Tip, a wheel stud screwed into the master cylinder & 3 way junction stops brake fluid loss ![]() Now for the carby, if fitted with a weber, remove it complete with the manifold, if a single or twin Su's a fitted, remove the necks off the carbs ![]() ![]() Undo top engine steady bolts & swing steady out of the way, Note some minis have another steady on the right side, remove this one ![]() Disconnet the battery cable & wires from the solenoid, if needed mark the wires to where they go, or take pics before disconnecting, disconnect temp gauge, alternator & coil wires ![]() If fitted disconnect oil pressure gauge piping & move aside ![]() If fitted remove oil cooler & piping ![]() unbolt clutch slave master cylinder & move aside Undo both heater hoses & move aside Under the car now On remote gear boxes undo the 4 9/16 headed bolts & slip of remote housing ![]() ![]() For rod change selector, put the car into reverse & tap the roll pin out of the sleeve, then remove the 1/2 headed bolt from the upper arm & remove There are many styles of extractors all have the own way of coming apart im sure you can work out how to get them apart, on a standard maniflod, remove the 2 bolts & the clamp & seperate the manifold & exhaust ![]() ![]() Universals, there are 3 types of mini universals, hardy spicers, rubber style & pot joint In this cars case it has hardy spicer uni's, undo the 4 1/2 headed nylon nuts & move uni aside ![]() ![]() Rubber uni style, undo the 8 1/2 headed nuts, remove the U bolts & uni Pot joint, you need to undo & break the taper on the bottom ball joint & remove ball joint from control arm & pop driveshaft out of the pot joint Undo engine mounts ![]() Underside of the car should be done now Undo the earth strap ![]() Attach your engine lifting bracket ![]() Engine is ready to come out now, attach your lifter, block & tackle etc etc ![]() ![]() Begin lifting the engine, on remote style gearbox you need to tilt the engine as it lifts to clear the firewall Once up high enough, disconnect speedo cable ![]() Engine should be clear of car now ![]() This is roughly what you sholud be left with ![]() Depending on how many times you've done this, it can take anywhere from 1/2 hour to 10 hours. This is a rough guide, it's how i remove a mini engine, im aware other have their own ways of doing it but hopefully this helps you a little A few of these does'nt hurt either ![]() Good luck Doogie |
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