wow - that's a LOT of power - that's at the wheels right, not a "umm maybe 30%" type flywheel guesstimate?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

That's right - power at the rubber! Overtakes require a little less planning these days

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-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-

Well done with that figure, and it's definitely not peaked.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Awesome result, well done

Absolutely loved reading this thread. If you ever return to Adelaide let me know. I’d love to see it in the flesh.

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Zulu...

1967 mini Cooper S

Quick update on how the twin cam is going a year later and with over 5000km on the clock. It remains running as well as it did the day it rolled off the dyno with plenty of smiles every time it gets driven, and even more so on the colder days - there's a noticeable torque difference.

As for maintenance, the only thing I've had to tend to was an oil leak coming from the cam cover which was a result of a few of the cam cover bolts becoming stripped. These bolts thread into the cam caps so all it took to fix was a solid helicoil and we were back in business. As my confidence is building, I am contemplating moving the RPM limiter up from 6750RPM to 7500RPM as I have hit it a few times where it felt it was a tad early. Other than that there is nothing that I've had to do to keep this engine running well. It starts first time every time and I am very comfortable with its reliability.

Also, I feel very lucky to have partnered with Classic Mini DIY in offering the map from this engine which is available from his website linked below. Relative to the map my engine is running at the moment, this base map has had the base fuel increase by 5% and the ignition timing reduced by 5% above 1500RPM so anyone with a BMW K1200/k1100 mini engine would be able to use this map as a beyond-good starting point until it is able to get to a dyno.

The specs of this engine
Head: BMW K1200 with RS Cams
Cam settings:
Intake: Cyl 4 @ 1.5mm lift when Cyl 1 TDC
Exhaust: Cyl 4 @ 1.8mm lift when Cyl 1 TDC
Block: A series bored out to 1380cc
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
Tune Type: Throttle Position vs RPM
Ignition Type: Coil on Plug
Trigger: On crank – Wasted Spark
Injection: Multi Point
Throttle Bodies: Quad Throttle Bodies with one TPS pickup
Intake: Naturally Aspirated
ECU: Haltech Elite 550

https://store.classicminidiy.com/produc ... i-base-map

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-

Over the last few years this engine has been running really well. One thing I noticed at Rylstone Classic 23 was some oil leaking around the intake and exhaust cam pulleys. I've read that these earlier generation pulleys from Matts kit are known to become scored by the oil seal and that's exactly what I found upon disassembly. Lucky though this is a relatively easy fix using Speedi Sleeves. I had not used these sleeves before but they were very straight forward as seen in the pictures. While I was there I also replaced the oil seals just in case.









This seems to have done the job perfectly and this morning's test drive was all smiles, especially given the horsepower benefits of the cold Canberra morning air.

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-

Wow, what a great invention those sleeves are. Never knew they existed.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Would this work on a 22G833?

As the speedi sleeves do increase the outer diameter of the shaft that needs repair, I don't think they can used on any hard bearing surfaces. They're really only designed for interfaces with rubber oil seals.

_________________
-----Better is the enemy of good-----
-1976 Yellow Devil Leyland Clubman-
-1970 Morris Mini Van - Work in progress-