Ive made a complete rats nest of my wiring and need to go back to basics.
I've decided to just make a whole new wiring harness as after nearly 50 years of mods and wear the current one is no good.

However before I can do that I need the car to move under its own power so I need to make up enough of a loom to start the engine. so:

Ive installed a new alternator, pulsar dizzy and remote starter solenoid (previously floor start).

As I understand I need battery live to starter solenoid, starter motor to other side of the starter solenoid, Ignition switch to the S terminal of the starter solenoid. and I (presumably ignition) goes on to the coil + (and other accessories?)

The pulsar dizzy has two cables; black and blue, I assume these go to the coil +/- (black being positive as usual)

Where would the alternator output fit into this?

Any help is appreciated, Ill draw up a diagram if this isn't clear enough.

The alternator probably has 2 big spade lugs and a small one.
The big ones go directly to the battery cable stud on the solenoid.
The thin one goes to the ignition indicator light in the speedo.

yes the black/white pulsar dizzy wire is + and the blue one is -, on the coil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for that,

But is it wireing or wiring and does the coil + get power from the battery, alternator or the starter solenoid "I" terminal.

The coil is switched on when you turn the key on the ignition to ign (the first notch), so the +ve terminal of the coil will only be on when you want the engine to run. Same goes for the field terminal on the alternator as Doc said.

I reckon its wiring.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The correct spelling is `wiring'.

Trust me- spelling was my best subject...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My car had a floor starter so my ignition switch is either on or off, Im bypassing the switch for the moment as I just need it to run before I worry about matching locks etc.

So where else can I pull power from for the coil?

Exactly that, from the ignition switch.
There will be a wire which runs from the battery side of the floor starter to the ignition switch which then supplies the fuse when the key is switched on.
This same wire at the igniton switch can be run to the +ve on the ignition coil (or use the terminal where it connects to the fuse box to keep a shorter run)

You really need a wiring diagram. Have you got one at all for your car?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Ah got you, I have a Haynes manual but the wiring diagram listed as the 850 has a starter solenoid for some reason and no floor starter, also the wire colors are somewhat different.

Not to mention the existing loom has been butchered nearly beyond comprehension.

Just wanted to check here before I let the magic blue smoke out.
I couldn't find it on the mini spares website.

I've noticed that, it describes a later (and more usual) electrical solenoid starting system, although the diagram describes the diagram as all models up to 1961! An error in the Gregorys manual. Solenoids were first available on the Riley Elf and Hornets were they not, followed by the Cooper 997/8 and UK Super and Deluxes?

In any case ,in the the morris workshop book, the feed for the ignition is supplied by a brown wire from the floor switch via the generator regulator (which you now won't have). It changes to a brown/blue at this point. This is the colour of wire you will see at the back of the igniton switch if it still exists, with a white going to the coil and another white going to the dash ignition light.

Here's the wiring diagrams from the workshop manual:

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.