You are right, for points ignition. Pulsar dizzy got none.
1.5 ohm coil + electronic dizzy = fat sparks..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have put my lucas dizzy back in temporarily, my pulsar one seens to have lost its spark, not totally, but its weak....

Im thinking about getting a new modulator, but even with works discount they are 60 bucks!

ideas?

G

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

Hey you're the one with all the Pulsar dizzys! Chuck another in...

Check coil resistance, should be 1.5 ohm, not much less or you could blow the module.

<edit> I wouldn't run the Bosch `electronic ignition' GT40 style coil that Chong got- it measured only 0.8 ohms.. we used a 1.5 ohm instead.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i have a pulsar module here ( somewhere) if u want it.

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lookin for another clubby

true... should just bung another in hehe, think i have about 6

G

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

Has anybody got any tips beyond 3/16" pin punch and BFH for removing the lucas dizzy drive dog pin? The ones in both my dizzy's are not budging at all.


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

The hole is often staked each end to hold the pin, makes them bloody tight. Grind the sides of the dog a bit until you reach the end of the pin. I use a VBFH (aka lump hammer) and a proper 3/16" pin punch. hasn't failed me yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

For me, a nail and a small hammer pushes em out easily. Gotta make sure that you're pushing it, and not just flaring the end of the pin (which makes it harder to move )

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

another lil bitch session here

has anyone got a drive dog from a mini (actually i need two) as i dont want to pull apart my dizzy which works perfectly just for the drive dog.. the mini guys here want me to buy the whole second hand dizzy (event though they have a s*load of rooted ones sitting out in the weather) for 50 bucks each.. all i want is the dog

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Expert in training

I'm putting a language warning on this post cause I need to vent a little...

I'm putting the job of getting the pin out second row on the grid behind bleeding twin leading shoe drums after qualifying for the most ****ing annoying task I have tackled on the mini. I bought the pin punch... have spent three nights with the dizzy in the vice with alluminium protectors over the vice teeth... still managed to score the hell out of the dizzy body and the drive dog when the teeth go through the alluminum protectors. The pin punch is about 5mm shorter now then when I started cause I've belted it that much and I'm only just 1/2 way through. The worst part is that its not getting any easier.



dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I don't hold it IN the vice.
I sit it ON the bolt that holds the vice to the bench, with the pin just clear of the bolt head. More rigid. The pin punch can then drive it through. Some are real bloody tight bastards.

If you want to use the vice, open it to about 10mm and sit dizzy on the gap with the pin vertical.
I have heard of people drilling the pin out, but that's another can of worms to open.. I won't go there.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

WOOOHOOO.

Got it. I finally got it into whats obviously the 'right' position where you can belt the hell out of it and get maximum force onto the pin. It might be a good idea to put that bit of useful information in the guide JAM...

Just filing up those couple of burrs from the vice.... as long as everything is smooth again it should be OK right? Balance really isn't an issue for the dizzy cam is it? There is just a couple little nicks out of the sides.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

A few burrs or ridges on the sides is no problem. Nothing touches that, it's small & the shaft only runs at 1/2 engine speed anyway so balance is no problem.

Check the endfloat in dizzy after you get the Mini dog on. don't leave the thrust washer out.. machine dog face if you need to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool...

Everything seems to be doing fairly well. I've pulled the dizzy right down... the linky that JAM put up to the Ford Escort conversion[url] has a good schematic. I cleaned it all up and reassembled. I'm pretty sure I've got it all correct, got the end float on the drive dog reasonable & the air gap where the 'reluctor' swings past. Do I need to lube it up in there at all?

I've got a Bosch GT40 coil but I dunno if its the R type or not... would the R be on the label.

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dwightgunning.com

Yes the R would be on the label on late models, early round ones are marked resistor on the bottom.
Use an R coil, or any resistor (1.5 ohm) coil but without the resistor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.